MOTORS make some pretty good manuals also. I have a shop manual and a MOTORS manual. If one doesn't have something, sometimes the other does.

I have the 1936-42 manual decribed by others. It is pretty good but I found the 1941 Factory manual to be even better since it is specific to 1941. Found mine on ebay and see them come up pretty regularly.
Jim Yergin

The subject of bad coils seems to keep coming up.  If you think you coil is the problem, where is a little something to look for....if there is a problem with the coil and the car quits running - touch the coil - TOUCH - don't grab.  If the coil is hot, then you have a coil problem....

The 1936-42 repair manual that bob mentioned is a very good one , i have had mine about the same number of years , another publication i have found to be very good is the 1935 edition of Motors Auto Repair MANUAL. it covers most American cars from 1935 to 1949. i have found that it covers every thing that i have needed to know

There were a variety of oil filters listed in the original factory parts list for '41.  Some were "Standard Non-cleanable"  and some were "Cleanable (Replaceable Element)". The manufacturers listed were Purolator, MoPar and DeLuxe. Additionally, many cleanable filter kits were added as after-market purchases. Some of these include FRAM and generic suppliers such as Western Auto. To make things more confusing, there was also a "type" numbering system used by MoPar that had nothing to do with the original part numbers. "Thrift Type MP 701" is an example of this number. Finally the cleanable type had two different filter elements. The most common was the traditional paper filter; however, one of the filter types also use a "sock" filter. I believe this was the one made by DeLuxe. It has the big "T" screw handle on the top.

I have looked for these filters for months and found nothing and then had two or more of them pop up in just a couple of weeks. I have paid in the range of $40 for both good used and NOS kits.

The attached photo is the filter on my '41. It was NOS straight from the MoPar box. I understand the body of the filter was also sometimes painted black. The cap is orange/red. I found that Chevy orange/red engine paint (not the pure chevy orange) is almost a perfect match for the color if you plan on restoring an older filter. As I said, the filter in the picture has never been restored...it is straigt from the box.

I would be interested if anyone has any more information about oil filter types.

On ebay right now is a good Plymouth shop Manual for 19.99.
It covers Plymouths from 1936-1942
As of right now there is just over four days left on the bidding.

Red cover.

This is a very good shop manual.  In fact I have had one just like it for close to 20 years

Hope this helps,
Bob

The service manual I have is rather lacking.  It's something I picked up on ebay... covers many years, all of them quite poorly.  Any suggestions on who publishes a worthwhile book?

For 1941 the cooling specifications are:

Capacity: 14 quarts
Thermostat starts to open at 157 to 162 degrees
Thermostat fully open at 187 degrees
P12 is fitted with bypass style thermostat, P11 is not.

Getting a factory service manual will really help you especially for those things that have evolved over the years and for which your experience on newer cars might not prepare you for.

Regarding your coil: They do go bad occasionally. But more often than not they don't. I would not bother trying to swap out coils until you have gotten the rest of the ignition system properly repaired.

Thanks guys.  You all have confirmed some of my thoughts.  As mentioned, the picture is one like what I have, but not my actual engine.  This picture is just better than any pictures I currently have of my engine.  Tod, I'm still guessing that my plug wires are original.  The wires do not move in the holder.  I haven't tried to Hercules them out yet, but was currious what the replacement procedure is.  Jim, I don't really have any desire to buy 66 year old parts to replace 66 year old parts with, so I see your point with buying a coil.  Guess no one makes an original style coil brand new (there was the mention of a atwater kent coil, but I haven't found anything for sale yet) .  Sorry, I'm a youngen, and have grown accustom to just buying new parts!!  For now I'll have to figure out what to do with a very old (cira 1970??) oil filter.  Also, how much coolant should I have in the car?  Is there some way to know?  Do I just top it off and let the radiator get rid of what it doesn't want? 

I had bought several NOS coils and had both of them go bad. The third time, I bought a new, standard 6V coil from a local parts store for under $20. I had to run a wire from the ignition switch into the engine compartment but doesn't look too bad and I've had no problems with it so it is still there.

Oil filter: What you have is a sealed canister type where the whole thing gets thrown away. WIX was the last manufacturer I know for them and they stopped making them about 5 years ago. You can get them off eBay or at swap meets. There are a number of obsolete part numbers you can look for. See http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group10#861028 for interchange information. There is another type of oil filter where you remove the top and replace the element. Those elements are still available. Again, eBay or swap meets are your friend. Finally, there is a fellow advertising in the Plymouth Bulletin who makes a housing that looks like your disposable canister that can be opened up to allow you to use a modern filter inside. I have no idea what the cost of that is nor how close it looks to the original.

Plug wires: First yours are not original. Second, simply install the distributor side clips and boots after threading the wires through the holder. I bought a roll of spark plug wire a long time back and now I simply buy the ends and boots from my local auto supply store. See http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group8#8-G for the various bits and pieces I use. My auto supply also sells a tool that designed for crimping the spark plug wire ends on but I simply used a regular set of pliers for years.

Coils: If you get a nice white spark when holding the high tension wire from the coil to the distributor near a ground while you open the points, then your coil is probably good. I did notice in the paper work that came with my new gas gauge sending unit that Atwater Kent makes new coils for our cars. And, of course, eBay or swap meets are sources for used, new old stock (NOS) and new old replacement stock (NORS).

Stephen-

I can answer some of your questions.

1. That is a sealed oil filter. You have to replace it as a unit; the last ones I bought from Andy Bernabaum cost 50 bucks or so. My '36 owner's manual says to replace them every 8000 miles; others on this board may have differing opinions about the change interval.

2. If you can't slide the distributor ends of the spark plug wires out of the loom, you'll have to cut off that end of the old plug wires to remove them.

I don't know about a crimping tool; I probably used pliers the last time I replaced the plug wires.

Also, when I ran my new wires through the loom, the engine would miss. I don't have them in the loom anymore, and the engine runs smoothly. Something to possibly watch out for.

Regards,

Pat O'Connor

Alright guys, I have some basic questions regarding my 41 Plymouth.  First off, I have an oil filter that looks like the one pictured below.... how do I open it to change the filter? or is it a sealed unit?



Second, how do you change out the plug wires and retain the nifty holder thing.  I assume you have to cut the old ones off and then slide and crimp new wires and ends on?  If this is so, has anyone found a good crimp tool that makes this job easier?

Third, does anyone know how to test the coil or a good source for a new one?  I've seen them around, but they've been 100 dollars plus.  Is that reasonable or is there a cheaper alternative?  Thanks in advance!
Stephen