30-U Starter

Started by cm67btl, February 26, 2011, 10:37:15 PM

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SD Glenn

Try this site first, belongs to Tod Fitch, and very helpfull.   http://www.ply33.com/Repair/voltreg
Then check all your wires and ends for good contact. Connection points have to be good and clean. I don't think you need a 12V system, these hints may help fix it for you, maybe Chet or Tod will jump in here.
good luck,
SD Glenn
SDGlenn
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cm67btl

so you are recommending that i use a 12v battery just for the purposes of starting. i have done that on 6v tractors and it helps a lot, but i am worried on this 80 year old car, can all the wires handle it. where did you put the voltage regulator?
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Go Fleiter

#12
put a V meter and read voltage while starter spinning. Mine drops to 4.2 V  with cold engine.
There is not enough energy left to ignite. Indeed, after spinning a while, getting oil around, engine gets spark in the same moment I let the ignition key go.
Now, Starter not consuming power any more, voltage immediately is enough to ignite. Engine has enough momentum left to start.

Fault of my starer motor,

but as I have a second 6 V  battery on board, I switch to 12 V (on starter plus ignition system only) while starting.

With Pertronix min voltage may not fall under 6 V at all! (and max is 9 V, so I had to put a V - regulator too  for the starting procedure)
Greetings from D?sseldorf! Go
Living in Düsseldorf/Germany, retired Dentist, wife retired lawyer, 2 daughters Judge and psychologist, 3 Grandchilds-Sorry for bad English
I like- PennsyRR- travelling Europe in my very original 51 Ply- My whole basement HO Germany based Model Railroad- 50ties stuff- Italy
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cm67btl

Alright, so now i have a new 6v coil and new plug wires. but i am still getting an erratic spark on the coil wire, and on the #1 plug wire it has a strong spark but it only sparks once or so when you crank the engine for about 20-30 seconds. i really dont know much about this car or how a positive ground system works, is everything just reversed compared to a regular car?
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JimCno

If there is a tractor supply store in your area, they often sell plug wires suitable for our old cars.
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cm67btl

sounds like my home town, i visit there sometimes. old guy behind the hole in the wall napa flipping through all his books. everyone around here are the big parts stores where if its not in the computer it dosnt exist
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SD Glenn

Hasn't been over 2 months ago I bought wire here. I think they are used to farmers and small town people doing there own work on most things. LOL I even found things like the wheel seals, wheel brgs, brake cyl kits, brake shoes, whatever, just by bringing in my old parts and they would cross reference them, and measure if that doesn't work. They always come up with what I have needed, so far. lol Maybe someone else has an idea for you. Good luck
SD Glenn

SDGlenn
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cm67btl

everyone around here seems to look at me sideways when i ask if they sell bulk spark plug wire by the foot. i may have to order from someplace online
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SD Glenn

#6
Hi,  I went down to the parts store (NAPA here) and bought wire by the ft., I don't remember how many feet I had to have but it isn't hard to measure. They also had the ends for plugs and the ends for the cap and coil, and also boots for both ends. If I remember right they aren't very expensive, under $20.  They worked very well. Not bad price..... oh, I got the hard wire type, not carbon.
Glenn


SDGlenn
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cm67btl

that is what i figured, does anyone know where i can get some spark plug wires? a normal kit wont work i dont think because the coil wire is so long. do i have to make my own?
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TodFitch

Quote from: cm67btl on March 03, 2011, 01:04:05 AM
thanks glenn!! it was not bad at all, just cleaned up the gunk. put it back on the car and cranks great. not bad for a car that hasnt moved in half a century. now i just need to figure out my spark issue. two questions though, 1, what do those two levers on the steering wheel do? one im guessing is spark advance, what is the other? 2, when i do finally drive it, i will need to double clutch probably huh, no syncro's in the trans?

Maybe the other lever is a manual throttle?

No synchros until, I think, 1935. And I think you have square cut sliding gears rather than the helical gears with sliding dog clutch that I have in my 1933. So yes, you will be double clutching.
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cm67btl

thanks glenn!! it was not bad at all, just cleaned up the gunk. put it back on the car and cranks great. not bad for a car that hasnt moved in half a century. now i just need to figure out my spark issue. two questions though, 1, what do those two levers on the steering wheel do? one im guessing is spark advance, what is the other? 2, when i do finally drive it, i will need to double clutch probably huh, no syncro's in the trans?
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SD Glenn

#2
Hi , Starter problems? Probable not to serious...  If you are even a bit mechanically inclined I think you can do this.  On the end you took the band off, there are 2 bolts, possible 3/8 head, they run thru the starter holding both ends together. Take those out, you should be able to wiggle, or pry, or tap lightly with a hammer, and separate the ends. Quite possible the only problem is on the brush end, clean up the comutator and brushes, make sure your bearings/bushings are not worn (any parts store will have new bushings if you need them and new brushes) Look the starter over carefully when you take it apart, so you are familiar enough to put it back together. I would remove the starter drive also and clean that up and oil the shaft so is moves easyly. In general, just clean up the whole starter and oil the bushings. You should undercut the comutator (use an old hack saw blade) cut down just far enough to be sure you do not have the contacts on the comutator bleeding across each other. The starter could be stuck (that why it just hums or buzzes) Could be crud in the housing, the brushes not making contact with the comutator, or the bearings stuck on the shaft. You could take it down to your local repair shop and have them just check out the fields and the comutator to make sure they are not shorted out, but I would try this first, you won't lose much time by putting it together and bench test it. Be careful when you put the end back on with the brushes so you don't break one of the brushes. These starters really are pretty simple so don't be afraid of tackleing it yourself. Good luck, I bet it will work.
Glenn
SDGlenn
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cm67btl

Hey all, its been a while since ive posted here. i am just now getting back into my 30u project. i hooked up the batter charger just to see if it would do anything. Suprise!! the headlights came on. I then tried to start it. the starter makes a buzzing noise. like its trying to do something, but ssomewhere inside its stuck. i took off the starter and put some jumper cables on the starter to bench test it. does the same thing. this car has been in a barn for 50 years and then under a tarp under a roof for about 2. i took the band off and its pretty gunked up inside. my question is how hard is it to take the housing off and clean it up to hopefully work?
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