rear drums

[Go Fleiter]

Dear Jkopy,

  Because of the reasons Todd said I suggest You put in what was in before. The only Silicone fluid  problems that a few members had told of in the old board were incompatibility of some gasket materials. If You rebuild the brakes, test this. It stands versus the advantage of not having to be changed because deterioration ( water absorbtion), not promoting rust and supporting much higher temperatures.
Greetings ! Go.

[TodFitch]

I have silicone brake fluid in my 1933 PD. No problems or issues since I finished rebuilding the brakes about eight years ago.

I have heard of people having problems with the brake light switch failing but so far mine has no problems.

I have also heard of issues switching from one fluid to the other. Rumor has it that they don't play well together and that you have to get all the old fluid out which is not really possible unless you are rebuilding everything. I was putting the fluid into a brand new system: New wheel cylinders, new master cylinder, new brake lines and hoses. So that was not an issue for me.

Finally, silicone fluid entrains small air bubbles pretty easily. So be careful, slow and methodical when filling and bleeding the system.

[jkopy]

thanks for all the input!? i fabed a puller from the pics that were sent and it worked great.? do you guys run synthetic fluid in your brakes?? i'm sure it's a good idea if you don't drive it much.? i live on the gulf coast and the humidity is constant.? can't help but get some moisture in the lines.?

all that's left is to drop the tank and clean it out.? should be roadworthy shortly.

again, thanks for the help!

john

[38tech]

I suggest you follow the helpful advice of our members. However, be sure not only to remove the nut, but make sure you back off the adjustment of the brake shoes or you could possibly damage the shoes, springs, and wheel cylinders as well.
John

[POC-Admin]

The article is on this site at this location

http://www.plymouthbulletin.com/rearbrakes.htm

Mark Olson
System Administrator

[jkopy]

thanks!  i'll give 'er a try. 

[Go Fleiter]

Don?t forget to let the castle nut on its last few threads when you try to loosen the drum, - if not: it really can fly through a wall!

For a sturdy puller see this post from Bill James, 14. May 2006:
http://plymouthbulletin.com/smf/index.php?topic=356.msg1428#msg1428

hope the link works!
Greetings! Go Fleiter

[TodFitch]

i really don't want to pull the axles.

Actually, to pull the axles you would need to first pull the drums. :)

The key is there to take rotational forces, but the drum is pretty firmly held by the taper on the end of the axle shaft. If you have worked with machine tools you know how tightly a tapered tool holder can be held in a collet.

Anyway, as my33ply wrote, you will need a wheel puller. Not a little wimpy one either. I found it worth while to buy one but you might be able to rent one at your local auto supply and/or equipment rental shop.

[my33ply]

I think that you'll find a wheel puller a great help to get the drum off. Good luck!

[jkopy]

hey folks
i'm new to the site and a recent proud owner of a 38 p-6.? she's in great shape, got the flattie running fine.? i haven't gotten the service manual yet, so maybe someone out there can help me.? i'm rebuilding the wheel cylinders and the front were easy to do.? but, how in the heck do you remove the rear drums?? i removed the castle nut and it appears that the drums are key-wayed on the axle.? of course they won't budge for me.? are the drums just corroded on the axle and need a little "loving" to remove, or is there something i'm missing?? i really don't want to pull the axles.