Looking for '35 coupe rubber/bushings/grommets

[TrueReb]

I got it done. Thanks for all the input. After trying several options and tired of seeing my car on jack-stands, I decided to take TodFitch's suggestion. I tried the Moog K5255, but the shafts were too short and I tried the Moog K7275 and they were too short as well. I needed about a half-inch more on both.
I went to Fastenal and bought round bar stock and the dies needed (7/16x20 and 3/8x24) for the threading and made my own, following Tod's formula. It was a work-out, but 3 hours later I had 4 shafts threaded on both ends (and blisters). Yesterday I installed them, removed the jack-stands and tested it around the block. All was good.
A few hours later after, getting the garage dust off, I took my wife for a ride for about an hour and was amazed at how smooth the old girl took the potholes and asphalt repairs (the car, not my wife). New sway bar and control arm bushings make a big difference!

[TodFitch]

For the similar shock links on my '33 I got some round bar stock of the correct diameter. Threaded the ends using the appropriate die down to the seat area. Put one nut where the factory version had a seat. From there on out the assembly and install were the same as the factory part. All I needed was a hacksaw to cut the bars to length, a die and a die holder. I guess if I'd had access to a lathe at the time I'd have tried to turn them down from larger diameter stock. But even now I'm not sure. . . Setting up a fairly deep cut on a rod that long would probably take more machinist skills than I currently have to keep it from bowing during the cuts.

[TrueReb]

The fronts are 10" shafts, threaded on both ends, 2 1/2" shoulder on one end, 2" on the other. It is 3/8"
The other is 9 5/8" long, 2 1/16 shoulder on one end, 2 1/2" on the other.

I'm really tired of trying to match them up at local parts houses, getting home with wrong parts, etc. any help is appreciated.

[RichW]

I might have some of theses shafts in my parts stash. What lengths do you need?

[TrueReb]

Unfortunately, the shafts for the control arms, sway bars, etc. had to be replaced as well. The Moog 5255 did not work for my '35. I could have gotten by with the bushings, if the shafts didn't need replacing. It is not an easy task chasing down these shaft replacements. As you can see from the pictures, some shafts were bent and corroded beyond re-use.


The replacements I used for the rear are Moog K7275 as they were closer to the measurements of the originals. It uses a 10" bolt, 3/8". The front I used Energy Suspension (apparently newly acquired by Moog) part number 9.8149G. However, using these on the sway bar is presenting a problem. I'm either going to have to use some type of compression, c-clamp or something else to be able to thread the nut on (too short). The front shafts (sway bar and control arms) are 8" bolt, 7/16".


I'm going to try to get someone to replicate the old shafts. Got to be someone with a metal lathe out there I know.

[RichW]

I F

I couldn't find anything that I thought was an adequate substitute. I eventually bought hard rubber bar stock from Restoration Supply Co. in California and made my own. It was cheaper andit worked well.

On the last go around for my shock links I used http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-K5255 for the bushings and retainers (washers). Haven't got a clue what they are officially made for but the counter man at my local auto supply came back with them in hand when I showed a sample of the originals.

I ordered these link kits from the link you provided and they arrived the next day. I found them to be close to the originals so I'm going to swap them out on my PJ. I wish I found these sooner. Thanks Tod.

[TodFitch]

I couldn't find anything that I thought was an adequate substitute. I eventually bought hard rubber bar stock from Restoration Supply Co. in California and made my own. It was cheaper andit worked well.

On the last go around for my shock links I used http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-K5255 for the bushings and retainers (washers). Haven't got a clue what they are officially made for but the counter man at my local auto supply came back with them in hand when I showed a sample of the originals.

[RichW]

I couldn't find anything that I thought was an adequate substitute. I eventually bought hard rubber bar stock from Restoration Supply Co. in California and made my own. It was cheaper andit worked well.

[TodFitch]

Don't know about the sway bar links as my '33 doesn't have that, but for the shock links my local auto supply was able to match up some rubber bushings and the washers that hold them with something currently available (as of a few years ago). For the links themselves, I got some rod stock from the local hardware store and threaded it as far as the inner raised seat area and then put a nut on for the seat (original looks like it was a forging with a formed seat for the inner washer). Looks very close to original and the cost wasn't all that high.

[Doran Johnson]

Perhaps Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts, Roberts Motor Parts or Mitchell Motor Parts would be a good place to start. They all have an online presence and can be found by doing an internet search (Google for instance) of the names I listed.

Doran

[TrueReb]

I've got my coupe up on jack stands and have removed all the sway bar link and rear link rubber. They were hard as rocks and needed replaced. Upon removal, I've noticed that a few of the link bars (don't know the proper term here) were bent and corroded and I really don't want to re-use them. I've been to NAPA, AutoZone and O'Reilly's and they can't match the part as they only go back to 1940.
So.... I'm looking for a source for the bushings and new links. Anyone have them?