cylinder head gasket: which one is more reliable?

[Go Fleiter]

I googled fel pro 7564C and got the Teflon variety.
Maybe Fel pro, Dana and Reinz ar co-working.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQPlymouthQQCambridgeQQFelproQQCylinder_Head_GasketQQ19511953QQFP7564C.html

[notdavidspade]

I would go with fel pro gaskets, they look to be all copper for the head gasket.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=FPGHS7564C_0147326241&An=599001+101951+50056+2056055+29100&Ar=AND(P_RecType%3aA)

[Go Fleiter]

From left, You see:                     colour           upper lamination       lower slamination       around water bores         framing cylinder space

2 ea "Steel Asbestos, Detroit"       black                    none                         none                    steel rings                         steel framing
                  (in Mopar pkg.)
1 ea "Mopar"                             copper                  copper                      copper                 copper rings                      copper framing

1 ea "Victor Reinz 7564C/1059C"   blue                     Teflon                       copper                    none                             copper framing

1) I burned two Steel Asbestos, one between #5 and 6, the actual between 3 and 4.
I found the steel framings dissolved. The left of the 2 showing has suspisciously soft core zones of lighter colour, the right one has a lot of rust on the steel framings.

2.) Mopar:  This one had not failed, it came out while rebuilding the engine 1999/ 2000.

3.) VR: This one is spare, I put this kind in without any sealer. It is 19 $ and from modern materials
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1349917&parttype=5412
Can?t find the layer structure picture in the web again..

The head had been planed .0016 in, so it was not guilty of the gasket failures because of warping!
The biggest concern was to get the water off the bolt holes!
As I have a preheater instead of the drain cock, a put a tube into one bolt hole, sucked, held closed with two fingers and tried to drain  into a bucket (the gasoline stealing method...).
But I coudn?t get through the mess of spark cables, overdrive relais harness, pre heater tubes, oil filter to reach the bucket while holding close. Always air entered too early.
I Than took a small clamp to close the tube, filled the tube with water, immerged it into the bolt hole and let it dow to the bucket.
Now I could easily open the clamp and drain all the water.
Well, a longer tube could have done the job over the fenders and down, but I didn?t have one long enough that small diameter...

On last Sunday evening, we had a heavy thunder storm here (over 80 firebrigade duty actions to drain cellars in D?sseldorf!), for me it was the opportunity to let my engine run warm on my own property (lots of neighbours at 10 steps from me) and to retorque the hot head. No one could hear and smell!!

Next problem: the spark plug cable bracket doesn?t allow to reach let bolt #2 for retorquing. Had to unskrew again...

Now car is running good, as is the weather.

Tanks for Your advice and
Greetings from D?sseldorf

[plym_46]

You are dealing with a pretty big slab of cast iron atached to another substatial chunk of iron.  There is a lot of surface area between the pieces.  Did you mention where you gaskets have failed?  The usual spot is between pair of cylinders where the castig is the thinest and the gasket material is likewise thin and unsubstantial. 

As mentioned when installing there are 3 critical items that need adressing, asuming the matig surfaces are true.

Dry or coated?  The manual says to install the gasket dry, other have reported that they spray on the copper colored spray to the block to gasket surface, a couple parties have used a thip application of GP grease on the same surface.  the choice is up to you.

Tightening sequence and procedure:  It is imperative the tightening sequence is followed, and it should be done in stages. Say three sewuences increasing torque each time.  30 Ft lbs, then 50, then 70. 

Retorque after heat cycle:  The factory manual says that the head should be retorqued after the engine has been run up to operating temp, and again that the sequence be followed to the 70 ft lb pec.  Some folks have recommended that it be checked after subsequent running cycles as well. 

There does seem to be some disagreement on wheterh the retorque should be done directly after shut down or after a delay to allow things to cool a bit.  It is obviously more comfortable for the person performig the retorque to wait till the engine cools a bit.
Thee doesn't seem to be an obvious agreement here as both techniques have served different owners well.

One procedure that I have used and it seem to have been beneficial is to make sure if you are using bolts, that you chase the threads of all the bolt holes i the block to assure that they are clean and not causing false torque reading by causing excess friction between the bolt threads and teh block threads.

I have also always installed the fasteners dry after the threads have been cleaned.  If you have studs and nuts then the uts should be applied and torqued dry.

[bigaadams]

the gasket is only as reliable as the surfaces are true and the hardware used is quality serviceable items..and the install procedure with regard to torque and  follow up torque is followed..working outside of specifications is running a predetermined element of risk and subsequent failure...unfortunately I have no clue as to what/if there is any limited amount the head or block may be warped..the book has no specs listed

[Go Fleiter]

(posted this on p15D24 too)
I burned 3 cyl head gaskets in a few thousand mls. Now I?m doubtful of which to use:
  The oldest I had were copper sheated both sides with water and cylinderholes reinforced with copper (rings).
  I got some 2 yerars ago with steel reinforcements around cyl holes plus water holes, but with suspicious (Chinese?) base quality.
  Last month I got some from Victor Reinz USA with teflon on both sides plus copper around the cylinder holes. Water holes are without reinforcement. They seem to be top notch engineering and my mechanic likes these most.
But recently , on e-bay I found offered the copper variety like my oldest.

Any experience with blank ringless holes? Is that a disadvantage?
Should I try to get the copper sheated? Are they more reliable?
Thanks!
Greetings from D?sseldorf!
Go