1940 heat manifold control ?...

[darren]

 :) OK ... heres a update...  I figure I been tightening the spring 1 turn clockwise way too much If i put it on the 1:00 position and counter wind it 1/3 or so theres is enough spring to make it work.... Unfortunately the original  spring I was trying to re position and ruined it... The second spring I got has no memory in it it will not move like the original one I tested it with a heat gun.. I just ordered from Mitchel's. motor parts a NOS.. Will let u know how that works out thanks for all the info ...I found the box of the nos mopar manifold heat control pkg ii is  1752419  . This one has a longer shaft I was able to hacksaw  ... only thing is mine will go in the open position at 1:00 O'Clock and the closed position and 4:00 but will not open like yours at the 11:00 with out reopening it I do not know why! ... But at 4: it is fine operating when hot and if its left in the 1"00 O'Clock position it will choke the engine when hot..... Till then Happy PLY-mouthing DANiel

[mvair]

Make sure you can turn the assembled unit clockwise when it is installed. It should turn very easily against the tension of the spring. This indicates that it is properly installed and the butterfly valve shaft is turning. The reason for the difference in the orientation of the shaft groove in the two pictures (one with the shield installed and the other without the shield) is because there is a stop inside the shield that keeps tension on the spring and holds the butterfly valve (inside the riser) vertical. When you put the shield on, you need to turn the shaft clockwise enough so the stop inside the shield clears the stop stud. Then you can push the shield on the rest of the way and tighten the cap screw. If you don't do this, the stop inside the shield will jam on the stop stud and the assembly will not rotate.

Is your assembled unit clockwise freely by hand when it is installed?

[Doran Johnson]

I believe Ton Hanaford at "The Antique Auto Parts Cellar" in Mass. has the parts for these systems and also has a sheet of instructions to help you set it up properly.  I'll keep an eye on your posting here and if you don't have it solved by Thursday, when I am home again, I could send you a scan of the instruction sheet.  It might help.

Doran

[darren]

OK... I got a mini hack-saw and was able to make a nice straight groove (cut) ... I come to the conclusion that either I have the wrong parts (angles off) or I am not installing the spring and weight correctly... so I need to know this... On your first picture it clearly shows the spring in the open position and with out the wieght .. BUT if you look closely the grove is on the left angle.... NOW ... if you look at the last picture it clearly show the wieght on (in the same open position ..cold) but on the right ? Why  ..... When I installed the spring I am able to go all the way toward the manifold... when I back the spring it goes almost 1 turn counter clockwise... when I do this and run the engine it wants to stay in the open position will not on idle close .. and the engine starts to choke up... I Evan have a commercial high heat gun (for shrink tubing) the spring works but with that one tun forget it will not turn the shaft... if I was able to find a another way of hooking it somewhere I am Sure it will work... Thanks again for reviewing my problem DANiel  ???

[darren]

Thank-you for posting these pictures.... I? now  see my problem the guy that sold me my"NEW" manifold kit gave me a 1955? and up kit .. and the shaft "IS" longer!.. your spring is the same as mine ... EXCEPT yours is really close to the manifold mine is around 3/8 -1/2 away and the spring isn "NOT" getting enough heat... I might trying using a dremal tool and make the grove closer to the manifold ... ... Also I see the small spacer goes on first then the spring that will help me to know how far I have to make the slit...  IF NOT, END OF THE SEASON I WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE MANIFOLD AND INSTALL THE CORRECT  SHAFT. ..Thank-you very! much for the info,? With out it I really would not of known .. DANiel...

[mvair]

These pictures show the spring "at rest" and wound counter clockwise and placed in the service position. The manual says not to turn the spring more than one turn counterclockwise. I interpret that to mean not to pass the post it hooks on more than once. The exact resting position of the spring can vary based on how it was made. I have two or three different ones and they are all different. One of them only requires a half twist to hook the stud. The one in the picture needs almost a full twist. (Perhaps a little less to account for the rotation of the butterfly valve shaft.)

If the butterfly valve is moving freely, you don't need to worry about if it is open or closed. The picture with the spring hooked on the stud is open because the engine is cold. If the engine was hot, it would look the same from the outside, but the valve would be closed.

There is a spacer that goes between the manifold and spring that you cannot see in any of these pictures.

Hope this helps.

[mvair]

The following two posts will show the pictures I believe you have requested. The first two pictures show the entire unit mounted on the butterfly shaft and the inside of the unit rebuilt with NOS parts. The only thing that can really go wrong with this is to have the butterfly valve stick in one position from rust or being bent, or having the spring break. I guess you could shove the cover on the butterfly valve shaft so far that it rubs on the manifold, but that would be pretty evident.

[darren]

I am working on trying to get my heat manifold to work properly and was wondering if any body has a working one. and if they could please share a picture of it .. open and closed if you can ... Thanks for the help DANiel... and .. happy PLY-mouthing ...