David-

I think you hit the nail on the head. I took the time yesterday to replace the rubber fuel line that runs from the fuel pressure regulator (in the rumble seat area) to the carb. According to the J.C. Whitney catalog, this new hose can handle gasahol, which is about the only gas you can buy anymore in north central IL.

When I finished installing the hose, a steady stream of gas came out of the hose at the carb end when I turned on the electric pump. I plan to cut up the old hose into small lengths, and then slice those lengths lengthwise, to see if the old hose disintegrated internally, or what blocked the old hose, so that, at times, gas would just dribble out of the carb end.

So, "theoretically", the '36 is now repaired, although I haven't had time for a test drive yet.

Regards,

Pat O'Connor

I had a problem on one of my cars where the tank was in front of the car and a electric pump at the engine. The pump actually sucking fuel from the tank. The fuel line had a small section on rubber hose where it changed angles. What was happening was that the pump would collapse the rubber section preventing fuel from  reaching the engine.  when the car would stop, the hose would go back to normal shape. Took a while to figure out what was happening. A thick stiff hose solved the problem. Could this be happening on the section of hose from your tank to the pump? Just a thought.

I think I have finally figured out the "what" which causes my '36 Plymouth to stall at highway speeds. It happened again the other day; I was able to nurse it home by pulling the choke all the way out.

When I pulled the rubber fuel line off the metal stub that threads into the carb, gas just dribbled out when I turned on the electric fuel pump.

I have a busy week ahead, but I'll try to find out "why" now. I bought new rubber fuel line yesterday, which is labeled as being safe for gasahol (it seems that all fuel around north central IL, even major brands, now feature 10% alcohol).

Now I need to figure out if the fuel line is plugged, or if it's a problem with the electric pump (the transparent filter between the tank and the pump looks OK).

Park Bear, what kind of tool should I use to bevel the ends of the rubber fuel lines?

Thanks all, and regards,

Pat O'Connor

Hey Fr. Mike-

My Carter electric fuel pump puts out about 6 or 6? 1/2 PSI.? Before I installed the fuel pressure regulator, the car ran OK, but gas mileage was 8 MPG and when I came back from a drive, fuel was dripping from the carburetor.

It stalled on me again yesterday, and I noticed the ammeter needle bouncing around about when it stalled. Today, I'm going to check the wire that runs from the switch under the dash to the pump, for shorts. I also noticed corrosion on a terminal that attaches to the voltage regulator (it has a 1942 generator and regulator).

Regards,

Pat O'Connor? ? ?P.S. I had a '36 4 door touring sedan, from 1969-1990, before I bought this convertible.

For whatever it may be worth to you, I also have a '36 Plymouth (P2). It is my driver, and because of the camshaft eccentric being worn to the point that I was getting only 2 lbs. vacuum, I installed an electric fuel pump (ACDelco ACD# EP11, GM# 6414670) back by the tank with the usual filter upstream.  leaving the new fuel pump in place. I don't think you need the pressure regulator. I'm not using one and  the gas mileage is in excess of 20mpg (last check 22.25mpg). The engine has about 78k on it, and has never been rebuilt. Great little engines!

Tod-

I replaced the rubber fuel lines (tank to transparent fuel filter to electric fuel pump to  fuel pressure regulator to carburetor) with new rubber lines, allowing some extra length near the steel stub that threads into the carb, for engine motion. I don't trust those neoprene tipped needle valves either, so I changed to an all-steel valve.

Pat O'Connor

Thinking of gas additives, any old rubber parts may be failing and swelling. In particular the flexible hose that connects the fuel pump with the line from the gas tank. You mention an electric pump so your plumbing is non-standard but I assume there is still a flexible rubber hose somewhere to take up the motion between the engine and the frame. How old is that hose? Is it designed for modern gas additives?

There is also a rubber tip on the float valve in the carburetor that might be swollen and sticky too.

Park Bear, Carla, and Elmo 54, you guys are great! Thanks so much for the advice. You got me thinking about some things, one of which is fuel quality. It's getting hard to find gas anywhere around here (even Shell & BP-Amoco) that doesn't have 10% alcohol in it. I'm wondering if this may be contributing to the problem, although my Carter electic fuel pump is a rotary vane (not bellows) type, and it is rated for gasahol, etc.

The pump is rated at 6 PSI, and my fuel pressure regulator is currently set at 4? 1/2 PSI. I'm thinking of increasing the PSI a bit at a time, while keeping an eye on the carb, so that I dont end up with fuel dripping from the carb.

Park Bear, I don't need a picture of the heat riser; I have a good picture in a manual, just wanted to verify the position of the counterweight on a cold engine. Thanks for the offer.

This is an awesome forum; I hope that I will be able to contribute something in the future.

Pat O'Connor

for vaour lock which we do have problems with here in NZ ,even though our temperatures  dont get any where what they do in the US. i wrap my fuel line from the pump to the carb in asbestos string ,also if the fuel line has been replaced with copper that will help cause vapour lock as copper attracts heat ,they should be steel. chrysler also bought out an accessory shield that bolted on over the fuel pump to help over come this problem. i have made several from a picture in a parts book for myself and others. if you cant get one just cut down an old tin can to try it to see if it works for you.

Hi,  ParkBear,

Its true enough that wooden clothes-pegs are involved in the traditional cure for vapour-lock, and we carry them too......but.....the real reason for having the clothes-pegs on the fuel line is that they are used to hold the water-soaked rag (shop rag, old cotton undershirt or tank-top, etc.) in place. The wet cloth is wrapped around the fuel-line when needed, to cool the line by evaporation.  The old technique works, we've used it a few times when at relatively high elevations, on hot days.

cheers

Carla

Mine is up, which makes sense because when it cold, the valve is closed. when you give it gas, it opens. This will allows exhaust to heat up when cold.  If this not working and your valve is closed, it will cause a sluggish engine.  This will create excessive back pressure causing the engine to stall and have a lack of power. I would fix this 1st before I do anything. Have fun, I can send you pics if you need them.

Mike

Park Bear & Tod Fitch, thanks for your suggestions. I will try all of them; I'm guessing it is a fuel problem, otherwise, pulling the choke out wouldn't help.

Another thing I forgot to mention earlier; the heat riser spring came loose. I thought I had a picture in one of my repair manuals, but I can't find it.

Can anyone tell me, should the counterweight for the heat riser be "up" or down" with a cold engine (after sitting overnight)?

Thanks,

Pat O'Connor

I talked with my dad who has been working on old cars forever. Here is his suggestion.

He said it sounds like your reason for not getting enough fuel is vapor locking. The reason for this is the intermittent behavior. If it was a carb problem, the odds are it would be all the time. Here are a couple things to try or check.

Install a fuel pressure guage. Install the guage right on the inlet of the carb. This will determine if you are indeed vapor locking.

Some things to try if you are vapor locking....
If the fuel line is running close to the exhaust manifold, try putting wooden close pins on the metal lines. The heat will go out the close pins and reduce the heat of the fuel . I know this sounds crazy, but what do you have to lose.

Take the rubber fuel line off the fittings (both ends), blow air through the lines. See if you can hear a whistle noise in the hose, check the ends of the hose it means you have an obstruction. This typically occurs if you don't bevel the hose before you push it on to the barbs.  The barbs will cut the hose inside.

Is the new pump still located near the tank?  The original had steel lines from the tank to the carb with the exception of a 7" rubber line. This will help eliminate rubber fuel line problems

If it isn't a vapor locking problem, take the carb off and use carb cleaner to clear out all the jets. Check the float level. Whats the temp of engine when it stalls?

Hope this helps and good luck
Mike

Half baked guess: Dirt in the carburetor?

Hi all,

I bought this '36 convertible in 1990. At the time,it had a 6 volt electric fuel pump mounted behind the rumble seat and rubber fuel lines running from the gas tank to the pump, and then to a metal line a few inches long that threaded into the carb. I left this setup as is, and it worked fine until last summer, including a trip from Illinois to Oklahoma and back in 1997.

Last summer, it stalled on the highway. I checked the pump and lines; the pump was erratic and the lines were getting brittle. I replaced the pump with a 6 volt Carter rotary vane pump, and ran all new rubber fuel lines. There is a transparent fuel filter between the tank and the pump, and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (currently set at 4? 1/2 psi) a few inches beyond the outlet side of the fuel pump.

The following has happened to me twice now.? On the most recent time, I went for a 30 mile ride, and the car ran great. It has the original 201 cubic inch flathead (it is the correct engine for '36), with about 110000 miles on it.

Yesterday, I went for a 20 mile ride to gas up the car (our town is so small, we don't have a gas station). Halfway there, the engine stalled at about 45 mph. I pulled the choke all the way out, and it kept running, although with not much power and I had to barely press on the gas or it woud stall.

Since I was halfway there, I continued on, made it to the gas station, and gassed up. The car started, although acting like it was flooded. It ran normal for a block, then cut out again. I pulled the choke out all the way, and made it back home, although slowly (about 30 mph).

Since this is intermittent (doesn't happen every time I take it out) I'm scratching my head as to the cause.

Any ideas, suggestions, etc. would certainly be appreciated. Last summer, when the '36? was not running, I would growl every time I would see a Model A running around while my car was in the garage, out of commission.

Regards, and thanks for any ideas

Pat O'Connor