Hi Dennis,

Reply sent via email. . .

Todd- I sent another message

Hi Dennis,

I tried to respond to your PM but got a response that your inbox is full.

Don't you just love happy endings!

Good to hear you got it running!

Ok thank you guys again!! Starts and runs on its own (after I prime the carb)-so fuel pump working. Seemingly, and I don't know how this would of happened-if it did-but when I had it running- I had the clutch in and hit the brake...now it seems like it isn't stuck. My plan is to try to get it out in the next week or so...we'll see.

Ok update ...like 10 minutes ago from my last posting- took the top off the carb and there is not a drop in the carb!.....I am going to try to fill the float bowl-and see if it will stumble?? Thanks again-D

Thanks, Lindsay & Todd-much appreciated!! I will pull the top of the carb off to see if there is gas in the bowl. I am thinking that it at least should stumble ?? if I put gas down the carb? It ran....at a high RPM about 2 months ago. I pulled a plug and it was dry-I am at a loss here as It would stumble a couple of times previously then start- with the gas in the carb-then it would run (on its own). I just want to get it running and get the clutch separated from the FW. We are soon moving about 41 miles away-and I remember pushing this before- it wasn't fun. I will probably pull the plugs when we move it (Great idea!!)...My thought (if I can get it to run)- was to have the clutch depressed fully- have it in 1st- then hit the brakes-the rear end is up on stands-front down on the ground. I also have had the rear end rebuilt- so all fresh there.....Thank you again-!!! Whenever I have issues you guys have come to my rescue!!!!!! Dennis

Try a different condenser. I have found as of late that they are making these to fail quickly. Just a thought, other than that Todd has great suggestions.

I don't have much success starting an engine by pouring gas down the carburetor. I either get too little or too much. Have you checked the carburetor float bowl? Is the fuel pump working (filling the bowl)?

Do you have a factory service manual? The ignition timing procedure is "static", that is with the engine off. I believe your car had a vacuum advance. Those can fail creating, depending on the internal failure mode, a large vacuum leak. You may want to remove the vacuum line and plug it at the carburetor to debug things.

If the big issue is the rear wheels won't turn because the clutch is rusted to the flywheel, you could just disconnect the driveshaft. You won't have a parking brake but I assume a trailer designed for transporting a car should have pretty good tie downs.

Another alternative might be removing the spark plugs. Without compression the engine should turn over pretty easily allowing you to winch the car on to the trailer. Along that same line, you should be able to shift the transmission into neutral even if the clutch is frozen as long as the engine is off and the car is stationary.

If all else fails, a set of wheel dollies might allow you to get the car onto a trailer. Maybe https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-1500-lb-capacity-vehicle-dollies-67338.html or https://www.harborfreight.com/5200-lb-max-vehicle-weight-ultra-mobile-self-loading-dolly-64601.html

I have a 39 P-8-It was running as of about 2 months ago- but ran at a very high RPM. I thought vacuum leak? maybe timing? Now it won't start. New points-.20 gap-Cond/cap/rotor/wires- Battery. When it was running I had to prime it with gas down the carb-then it would start and run. Now it cranks over good but nothing. I put a timing light on the 1st cyl and it flashes-so it is getting spark. Gas down the carb-still nothing. I need this to run so I can 'unhook' the flywheel from the clutch plate. Could the timing be so out that when it did run it ran at a very high RPM-? Now it won't start-is there a way to time it without it running-? Getting frustrated here. We are moving soon and this won't push onto a trailer because of the clutch/flywheel issue.