The Full Floor Project

Due to the length of this task and the number of pictures I posted a link to the blow by blow description below:

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2018/02162018.htm



Cheers, Chet...

Quote from: Bill Davis on February 06, 2018, 03:25:03 PM
It looks like this repair facility did some quality work judging by the exterior fit & finish.

Hi Bill,

The work on the generator and starter was don by Don Allen. Pricy but excellent work.  He was featured on Jay Leno's Garage.

Don Allen / Gener-Nator
85340  Hwy.101
Florence, Oregon, 97439  USA 
541-902-2255 
www.gener-nator.com

It looks like this repair facility did some quality work judging by the exterior fit & finish.

I received the Generator, Starter, and Carburetor back from repair.  The Generator and Starter were completely rewound and all new component parts installed.  See below:



The Starter:


The Carburetor - Looks Good but I am not familiar with the builder so we will have to see how well it works once I get the motor back.  Of course I will get the motor tuned up with my old Tillotson Carb which I know works.


Bob, Well see when the time presents it's self.

of Your work + documentation too!
Greetings to all of You!
Go

Chet you are more than welcome to park the trailer in my dooryard, with our health the way it is, we couldn't put you and your wife up, put there are places to stay if necessary

Quote from: RC Drown on January 31, 2018, 06:34:18 AM
I am sitting here with a cup of coffee and see the car in my mind's going up Rt 28 from the Ashsokan to Delhi.  Good luck with it my friend, she is looking good

Bob, That's a nice thought.  Never say never, I just need a place to park the car trailer because the old girl wouldn't be able to keep up with traffic on the NJ turnpike.

I am sitting here with a cup of coffee and see the car in my mind's going up Rt 28 from the Ashsokan to Delhi.  Good luck with it my friend, she is looking good

Chet,
It looks like you are making steady progress on your Plymouth.  Thanks for the updates you post.
I always enjoy reading about your on-going restoration.

Winter Work / Odds & Ends:

The weather, especially the cold weather, has forced me from the garage but I am trying to continue to make progress even though my hands-on time has been greatly impacted.

What's in the works currently:

• Motor is being rebuilt by J&M Machine.
  
• Original Starter and Generator are being rebuilt by Don Allen in Florence, Oregon.
  
• I sent my RT08 carburetor parts to a gentlemen in Virginia who is rebuilding the carb and adding a new brass accelerator pump.  Pricy but I believe it will be worth it.., especially for adhering to originality.
  

• I have also been able to clean up and restore all firewall parts (Example - Fuel pump, Tags, etc).  I have spent time ordering hardware such as 1/4 20 square nuts along with the appropriate slotted screws for the firewall and other areas (Boltdepot.com).  I am trying to locate all incidental parts, like rubber grommets.

• I have received the wiring harness but I need to install the bottom metal dash support brackets before I can start installing any of the new wiring.   Sometimes this little stuff just eats away at your time.

I founded this window regulator on eBay.  It was frozen and not functional.  I was able to clean it up in my ultrasonic cleaner.  The ultrasound did a great job freeing up the mechanism.  The paint will preserve it for another 100 years.   BTW my driver's side door regulator's teeth were gone.  This one was a welcome surprise.
Part after cleaning, lube, and paint.

Well back to the grind.  Working on some indoor home improvement projects.

Thanks for the photos, Chet.  Looks like the engine rebuild is coming along nicely.

29U Engine Refurbishment Update:

All engine parts have been cleaned and crack checked.  NO Cracks in either Head or Block.!!!



Link to all engine progress pictures at J&M Machine.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/J-and-M-Machine-Co-Inc-270076059772640/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1467684380011796

Thanks Go, & Doug

Things have slowed down a bit with the Holidays and the cold that moved in but I am jumping in when I can.  Mostly sending things out that need to be repaired.  Removed the rear motor mounts yesterday and cleaned up the firewall and front frames.  Will send the mounts to be re-volcanized.  After 89 years the rubber is solid.

Will continue to keep you guys in the loop.



Chet...

Thanks for the update. I have been following along and really enjoy this kind of posting. Finished cars are nice but it is the process and trying to get the information to move forward that I appreciate. Keep it up. Doug

Thanks for that link!
Go

The Motor Continued...

I delivered the motor safe and sound to J&M Machine in Southborough, Massachusetts.  They keep a Facebook Page and will be sharing photos of the rebuild in progress.  If anyone is interested the link is below and you do not have to be a Facebook member to view the pictures.  John reports that the pistons are the original stock size.  My assumption is that this is the first major rebuild.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/J-and-M-Machine-Co-Inc-270076059772640/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1467684380011796

The weather has turned a little cold but I have still been making progress.  I sent out my Original Generator and Starter motor to Don Allen in Florence, Oregon.  Don was featured on JAY  LENO'S  GARAGE.  Don will be completely restoring these parts to original like new condition.  This includes rewinding and wiring both the Generator and Starter motor with all new parts.  A "like new" engine deserves a "like new" Generator and Starter.  Below is a link to Don's web site.

https://www.gener-nator.com/index.htm

Neither one of these processes are inexpensive and just my personal choice.  Currently I am waiting for the wiring harness so if the weather gets better I will start on cleaning up the front frames and engine firewall.  Of course working on the toe board will be a lot easier without the engine.

Happy Holidays,  Chet...

:))

While waiting for the wire harness I have been doing some clean up work in preparation for the floor installation.

--

My understanding of the rear pan's positioning:

According to my current information the pan should sit back approximately 72 and 3/8 inches from the front sill edge to the front edge of the wooden cross member that the pan attaches to.  I believe that the front edge of the seat pan sits back roughly 3/8 of an inch from the front face of the wood cross member.  The height off the finished floor is 2.5 inches.  Also the rear of the pan attaches through the rear triangular body braces.  Again my car is a 1929-U 4dr. sedan.



A picture looking down on the front of the rear seat pan would be greatly appreciated.

Can anyone confirm these assumptions ?

Finally finished the last of the structural framing

I can finally move on to something new.  Yes I know that there is still plenty of wood work to complete but the structural side of the equation is now in the past.  It's actually been a little over a year since I started down this road.  Pretty soon maybe I'll have something to actually drive again.





I'm thinking Floor next ?


Chet...

Go, you bring up a good point.

Weather integrity is not an item that keeps me up at night but is something that needs to be considered.  Thanks for bring it up.  I am fully confident that the roof will be sealed weather tight.  There are moldings, rain channels, and silicon corking which at this point is not apparent but will properly seal the roof when completed.  As for the rest of the car the areas of concern are the movable windshield and all the movable windows in the doors and body.   Also the wood structured bottom of the car.  When we get to these areas we will make the best effort to ensure new window channels and maintain natural drain paths for window runoff and seal areas that might be considered problematic. 

As far as concealing screws and attaching components, 99% of what you are seeing now in my pictures will be covered by interior upholstery and roofing material.  It?s unfortunate that the countless hours of work that will be expended to complete the framing of this old car will not be seen because none of it is exposed.

I am not sure how weather tight this old car was when it rolled out of the factory but the chances of my car seeing extended periods of bad weather is highly unlikely while the car is in my possession.  Maybe being accidently caught in a rain storm should be an extremely rare case.   Either way we will do the best we can.

As always you guys keep me honest,  Chet? 

I had no idea, how these metal and wood parts could go together!
Very interesting- and I?m curious, how You will hide all these skrews and how You get them water resistant!
Greetings from D?sseldorf!
Go

Roof Frame Continued (front & driver's side)

Due to the length of this task and the number of pictures I posted a link to the blow by blow description below:

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2017/09132017.htm



Chet...

PS..  36splodge Thanks for the At-a-boy...

I am really appreciating this account of your work. It is not my year but it will help some one else. We all get encouraged to work on our cars when we see the details that are under all the glossy paint and chrome. Thank You!

Upper Roof Frame Continued (front)

Due to the length of this task and the number of pictures I posted a link to the blow by blow description below:

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2017/08312017.htm



Chet...

Driver's Side Upper Roof Frame

Due to the length of this task and the number of pictures I posted a link to the blow by blow description below:

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2017/08132017.htm



PS.....  Need a little help...

Does anyone have pictures of the rear and front sections of the 29Plymouth roof looking from inside the car with or without the headliner.  I have some but nothing that shows the area over the rear window or front windshield in any kind of detail.

I am trying to make a few decisions on the reconstruction of the 29 4-door sedan roof.  From the rear section's metal skin there is a definite left to right curvature to the roof.   In most pictures the roof looks pretty flat but looking at the front metal form of the cowl, it does have a slight arc to it.  Can anyone confirm whether the front section of the roof is at a slight arc or does it lay completely flat in reference to the windshield sun visor. 

As you probably know already there was no original roof wood left on my car.  I have plenty of pictures of original roof construction but I am still flying blind.  Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,  Chet...

Really great!
It seems to fit much better than off the factory!
Greetings! Go

Quote from: chetbrz on July 29, 2017, 07:31:44 PM
Thanks Bill & all,  Your interest keeps me going and keeps me focused.

Impressive!

Thanks Bill & all,  Your interest keeps me going and keeps me focused.

It's Great when a plan comes together !

Due to the length of this task and the number of pictures I posted a link to the blow by blow description below:

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2017/07302017.htm



Chet...

Chet,

Thanks for keeping the POC membership in the loop as you are doing
the restoration on your Model U.  I really enjoy seeing your progress
reports.

I fully understand that You couldn?t resist this one :))

I couldn't resist.  I had to install the front door !

Due to the length of this task and the number of pictures I posted a link to the blow by blow description below:

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2017/07252017.htm



It seems that my work is paying off.  Fingers crossed on the other 3 doors.

Chet...

Cowl Frame Continued - The Dash

Due to the length of this task and the number of pictures I posted a link to the blow by blow description below:

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2017/07232017.htm



Chet...

Quote from: twpoulter on July 12, 2017, 04:48:42 PM
Chet may I ask if the metal panels are original or what you have made or had made, I ask because I am working on a South Afriacan owned 33 PD and a Texan owned PE. The PD had next to no rust when it came to me in 2012 but the PE had a lot of rust to the cab, lower belt lines mainly. Just got to love these old Ply's

The metal skins are original.  Of course I have cleaned up the inner sides and painted where I could to further preserve the car. 

Tod, Thanks for the continued encouragement.  I'm learning more about this car every day I work on it, but mostly.., every other couple of days that I just spend time thinking about it. 

Chet may I ask if the metal panels are original or what you have made or had made, I ask because I am working on a South Afriacan owned 33 PD and a Texan owned PE. The PD had next to no rust when it came to me in 2012 but the PE had a lot of rust to the cab, lower belt lines mainly. Just got to love these old Ply's

Impressive work and it looks like you have put considerable thought into how to fabricate the wood and square up the body, etc.

Cowl Frame continued

Due to the length of this task and the number of pictures I posted a link to the blow by blow description below:

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2017/07092017.htm

The Cowl Frame Assembly

With the rear frame section completed, I moved my attention to the Cowl Assembly.  Once this section is completed I will be able to hang my doors and position the center door column supports.   Once all this work is completed I will be able to start work on the roof members.

I started by striping the Cowl down to the frame pieces or in my case what's left of the original frame.  I removed the dash and the upper window metal which included the metal front door hinge pillars and windshield.  I also removed all the component parts from the dash.

The picture below is a view of the back side of my dash.  I believe the blue paint is the original body color of my car.  So I am assuming that the area of the dash behind the front windshield was painted the same as the Plymouth body color.



It appears that the Cowl consists of three wood members.  The center dash and windshield support and the left and right side front door hinge pillars.



The only original wood left was the center windshield support.  I will be able to use this piece by joining new wood to the left and right sides.  I will be able to use the metal hinge plates to fabricate the wood hinge pillars.  So the cowl is basically three wood members joined together with the rigid metal supports.  The good news is, I have all the original metal supports.

I would be interested in any pictures of this area showing the wood members, the hinge pillar, and the windshield.


Thanks,  Chet...  PS.. I have the lift assembly for the front windshield.

Rear Window Frame & Upper Cross Member

Due to the length of this task and the number of pictures I posted a link to the blow by blow description below:

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2017/06022017.htm

What an amazing amount of work your putting into both the car and the documentation, I'm working on a 33 and a 34 and just don't find the time to write all the details up or even take enough photos. There is only one other I know of and that's Tod with his ply3 com which is very relevant to my builds. I will bookmark your thread and pop back when time permits. Keep the good work up, absolute credit to you.

Tom Poulter

Quote from: napmaster on May 19, 2017, 10:31:46 PM
You are a craftsman!  Thanks for sharing the pics and descriptions.  Though mine is a 35, and I don't intend to restore it like this, I learn something every time you post.  Great job!

My humble thanks, but I must say posting keeps me on an honest path.  Sometimes the urge to shortcut things gets very strong.  Posting pulls me back to my prime directive.  Tks, Chet...