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I have quite a few. too. I will check with you in the near future as to trading. They sure take up less space than collecting fenders!!!
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« Last post by gordie on January 13, 2020, 06:04:15 PM »
Chrysler Corporation, Plymouth division and their different dealers offered many different postcards over the years that were strictly on the Plymouth car and truck. As a collector of these I have accumulated about 250 Plymouth only postcards and am looking for any unusual cards that I do not have. I wondered if anyone else collected auto postcards and would be interesting in trading for cards that we do not have in our collections. If so please let me know as I have several hundred cards for trade or for sale.
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« Last post by Go Fleiter on January 10, 2020, 11:02:04 AM »
to: clutch cover.
at our speeds everything I replaced was well enough balanced, less the propeller shaft, which (although beeing symmetrical) had marked a foward end. Once, not caring of this, it had a big balance error. Turning it over was enough for immediate relief.
The clutch cover is less mass, so it is less prone to vibrations than the shaft.
Together with the other parts, You may let the assembly balance out. Than mark their positions. If not: just try!
When putting fly wheel, disc, springplate, release bearing with sleeve and cover together, a good centering device is useful!
Good succes!!
Greetings from Düsseldorf!
Go
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« Last post by SpecialD on January 09, 2020, 04:35:24 PM »
Thank all kindly for the information.
What was a bit confusing, was that I was able to drive the car around the block, shifting well, then after rebuilding the brakes, unable to get out of neutral.
My plan is to pull the clutch for inspection of the release bearing.
I noticed that I could purchase new parts at Andy Burnbaum. The shop manual states to mark the clutch cover and flywheel in order to maintain balance. If I replace the clutch cover as new, does that effect balance with flywheel?
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« Last post by Wm Steed on January 09, 2020, 03:17:40 PM »
If the vehicle has not been operated since 1952, the gear oil has most likely turned to a sticky goo that is no longer fluid. The gear lube in the trans and rear end should be changed, replacing same the correct weight which probably is 90 w.
You should also repack the front wheel bearings and replace the seals. Over time the wheel bearing grease will turn hard, settling into the hub.
To remove the trans cover the floor boards have to be removed. The gear grinding you are encountering could be a result of the '37 trans not being synchronized, many of the transmissions did not have synchro's until '39. Wm.
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« Last post by 31plymouth on January 08, 2020, 01:25:30 PM »
Did you ever get a wiring diagram?
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« Last post by TodFitch on January 06, 2020, 12:00:06 PM »
I am not as familiar with the '37 as with the earlier cars, but no: You need to remove the floor boards. At least you need to on the '33 and '34 and from what I've seen of the diagrams for the later 1930s Plymouths even though the design is different the result is the same.
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« Last post by SpecialD on January 06, 2020, 11:30:37 AM »
I recently purchased a 1937 Chrysler Royal that had not been driven since 1952. After rebuilding the fuel, coolant, brake systems, the car runs well. The floor, however, shifter grinds when attempting to place in gear. The clutch pedal has been adjusted correctly, still unable to get in gear.
The shop manual advises to remove the floor boards in order to remove the transmission/clutch. Is there a way to remove floor shift lever without removing the floor boards?
I am relatively new to the restoration process, any advise would be greatly appreciated.
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« Last post by 28 Ply.cpe on January 05, 2020, 03:02:52 PM »
It is a seal impregnated inside a steel flange. I have an extra one new in box. Once in a while you can find one on ebay. You can email me at billnlana@outlook.com
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« Last post by 28 Ply.cpe on January 05, 2020, 03:00:04 PM »
You do not really have to pull the drums to adjust your brakes. The bottom two sort of rectangle shaped bolts are the accentrics to move the shoes in and out. You will have to jack up the car and spin the wheel till you get the tightness that you want. I would myself remove the drums and rebuild or replace the wheel cylinders and rebuild the master cylinder and check the old brake hose at the front wheels and the flexible line at the back pumkin . These hoses swell over time and the fluid will not pass through. You may just have to bleed your lines to get the pedal back up. Good luck. Any problems you can email me at billnlana@outlook.com. I have a 28 cpe.
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