Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Parts and Paper / 41 Plymouth Upper grill mouldings
« Last post by GWR on Today at 07:08:50 PM »
I have a set of three NEW OLD STOCK grill moldings. This is the set that goes in the center just below the hood. Sorry, don't have the clips/studs for mounting.

All three for $80.00. Gary, chiefgr@hotmail.com or 503-939-9320.
2
Parts and Paper / Re: 1934 PE/PF Control Arm Bushings
« Last post by GWR on Today at 06:54:29 PM »
Signal if you are still looking for these parts I might be able to help.

I have part number 622881 Front-wheel Lower control arm pin, Listed for 34 Plymouth and dodge. Set of 2.

Part Number 627020 Front-wheel Lower control arm Bushing, this is listed for the 34 Dodge and Chrysler (not Plymouth). Set of 4.
But, it fits on the pin listed above.

Part number 633206 Front-wheel upper control arm bushing. Listed for the 34 Plymouth. Set of 4.

If you interested contact me at chiefgr@hotmail.com.

Happy Motoring, Gary R.
3
Well, bad luck happens!
 If You don´t find a repacement engine,
You definitely have to rebuild the actual one completely.
Just pulling the oilpan will not even help to evaluate the condition of the engine
after such a serious harm!
You must consider having metal chips or other grit in the oil channels.
The engine must be cleaned completely!
Aften dismanteling, You must have all the bearing faces reworked and the cylinders honed.
Only then, You may take exact measurements to get valuable data
of crankshaft, pistons, camshaft, valves.
The surfaces of block and cylinder head must be grinded to get a true finish.
For the main bearings, rod- and camshaft bearings You will find new inserts
and bushes in several oversizes adequate to Your results. Also properly fitting
pistons should be available.
Sets of valves and guides, of valve springs, various gaskets are available too.
Don´t forget a new timing chain, sprockets (there are different specs!!).
The water distribution tube is essential for effective cooling!
So, all this requires an sophisticated engineshop and experienced personnel.
If cost control is necessary, You may strip the engine and even pull it yourself.
This all ist just what came in my mind spontaneously, so,
after such a misfortune, You need advice locally!

Reliable dealers I have best positive experience with are
https://www.oldmoparts.com/
and
https://www.kanter.com/index.aspx

There are others, and for a lot of parts You can go to Your local NAPA.
For the cylinder head gasket I prefer a  modern variety
Victor Reinz 1059 C (this is for my 1951 P23!)
https://victorreinz.us/products/head-gaskets
http://www.federalmogul.com/

Good Luck!
Go

4
Hello, all in the club...
I am sad to say that I got an engine knock that end result is a seized crankshaft and whatever else is jammed or broken up in the block... I "KNOW" I have to take the oil pan off to see what all is damaged... I have to raise it up asap to see what's the problems... Is there "anyone" that may have a good conditioned rebuilt P 20 short or long block that I could get a quote from??? Or, any figures of what a club member would charge me to buy a rebuild kit in case I have to go that route???
Thank you for any tips or ideas that I can hear from anyone that may have the time to respond...
Thanks again,
Leonard
5
Parts and Paper / 1935 Plymouth PJ door parts & diagram
« Last post by skyhawk on August 13, 2019, 01:47:40 PM »
I'm trying to restore worn parts in the door & window cranks in my '35 but don't know part numbers or who might sell these items.  Can anyone help?
6
Technical Discussion / Re: 1932 Plymouth PB
« Last post by TodFitch on August 12, 2019, 09:28:16 PM »
Don't know about the '32 but my recollection on my '33 is that you need to remove the flywheel before the bell housing can come off the engine.
7
Technical Discussion / 1932 Plymouth PB
« Last post by kruhn on August 12, 2019, 07:25:59 PM »
I'm in the process of restoring a 1932 PB 3 window business coupe. The engine is stamped PB****.  Today I removed the engine and bellhousing as an assembly. I don't have a service or repair manual, so I'm looking for help as how to separate the bellhousing from the engine. I've removed all the bolts, but there isn't enough clearance between the flywheel and the two dowel pins to remove the bellhousing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
8
Technical Discussion / Re: George Asche Overdrive
« Last post by Don St Peter on August 12, 2019, 06:26:34 PM »
Thanks for all the help guys. I have been side tracked on other matters, but will kep you posted on findings.
Thanks again
9
Technical Discussion / Re: 1928 Sedan Restoration
« Last post by chetbrz on August 10, 2019, 09:50:25 PM »
I hope I am understanding this. If you weld the split rim together you will not be able to install the tire. That’s why the rim is split so it can be compressed with the split rim tool so that you can install the tire.

Good luck with your car, Chet

10
Parts and Paper / 1932 pb exhaust manifold
« Last post by willy v on August 09, 2019, 09:01:44 AM »
have a friend that contacted me with a broken manifold on his pb he inherited, and the flange to the exhaust pipe is broken off. he is looking for one and i noticed in 2018  that someone had, or knew of one available. if anyone has or can put me in contact that would be great. i am new to this forum, but for information you can check out the Fountainhead Antique Auto Museum in Fairbanks Alaska. the manifold is not for the museum, but for a friend.
thanks
willy V
907-388-8252
wvinton@gci.net
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10