Glass for a '35 Plymouth....

[Lew]

Thanks for the info. on the wide channel. Restoration Specialties used to carry the moleskin and the felt material by the foot.
A couple of notes from my '36 window channel redo ( which may be similar for the '35):
There may be on your car some detents for inside horiz. weatherstrip at the belt line shown in the parts book. I couldn't find the replacement so used modern fuzzy stuff  and cut out little notches in the metal portion and contact cemented it in. The 3M type adhesive wouldn't hold it.
Also, it took 3 passes at the rear (back) window replacement due to the corners curvature, even with a cardboard
template. The window cut out (stamping) wasn't exactly symmetrical and caused the weatherstrip to pucker and bind. I installed
the rubber weather strip here with a string to pull the outside overlap flap out.

[JimCno]

Thanks Lew. I've come to the conclusion that the glass in my car was not cut to the original specs and there in lies most of my problems.

I have not seen any place selling the wide lower channel. Both of mine are there but the lining is very worn. I think I'm going to buy some 2" wide moleskin to re-line them.

[Lew]

Hi :
One trick learned from the pro shops years ago was the channel can be shimmed slightly  using very thin upholstery cardboard
or other "non pervious" material when you glue it in especially if the glass is cut a little too short or your metal substrate is uneven.
If you found a source for the wide front door lower vertical channel, please advise. It doesn't seem to be available.

[JimCno]

Thanks, I just measured mine and it is a full 25". That may be my problem.

[RichW]

No. I don't think it was that large. It's probably a 1/16 of an inch or smaller. 24 3/4 is probably pretty close to the original size.

[JimCno]

Thanks! That's great! Just so I fully understand what you are saying, the 24 3/4" measurement of the rear window is slightly longer than the original glass so the original may have been 24 1/2" or 24 5/8"?

[RichW]

Jim, here are the measurements

[JimCno]

Rich, that would be great! When you have a chance, send me the dimensions of the front and rear door glass and I can get a better idea how close the glass I have is to the original, then make a better guess where the problems lie.

Thanks!

[RichW]

I have all the glass for the 4 door sedan. If you need any glass I can send you the dimensions or have them made up at a local glass shop if you need them. My rear quarter windows were cut short that I bought from a vender that I found in Hershey or Carlisle years ago. I took an original to the glass shop and the made new ones for $25 a piece and they fit perfectly.

[JimCno]

Thanks! I'll check out those dimensions. I notice that the upper rear corner of your glass appears to be cut at a sharper radius than mine. That would account for the gap. I do have a tube of the weatherstrip adhesive you speak of and that was what I had planned on using.

I have door glass on order for the two front doors from Classic Flat Glass. They should have the original pattern and I'm hoping that will take care of that problem.

The rear glass will either have to be cut down, re-cut or I need to find a different channel.

[RichW]

Jim, I used 3m Super weatherstrip/gasket adhesive. It comes in a black tube. Sorry if I misled you. The corners of the channel have to be cut from the back so it can bend without distortion. After I used the adhesive I rolled up the window to put pressure on the channel so it would stick. At the end of the channel it is anchored with clips at the bottom of the run. Sometimes these rust out.

I measured the ends of the window glass in a spare channel. There's a  1/2 inch overhange at the rear and 4 inches in the front. 

[JimCno]

The front window does appear to be in the channel correctly. The first turn down brings the window back an inch or so for venting (which I wish my modern car would do!). It is when it is fully forward that the opening appears in the upper back corner.

I'm looking at the glass channel I removed and it is very flimsy (I'm sure that's why it is falling apart) and has almost no depth to it at all. The replacement channel has a rubber coating and I'm thinking that is the difference. I'm wondering if I should bring the glass into a glass shop and have it cut a little smaller?

I've never used trim adhesive before, how does that compare with weatherstrip adhesive?

[RichW]

Jim, I also experienced many of the same problems you have when I restored my PJ. Is the front door glass set in the channel correctly? It should move sideways and then down.  As for the window channel, I kept it in place with 3M trim adhesive. The garnish molding helps to keep it lined up. On the rear door windows of my PJ, one works correctly and one seems to be too tight the same as with yours. I plan to work on it more in the spring.   

[JimCno]

Can anyone give me any ideas about the door glass in a '35? I'm beating my head against the wall trying to get this stuff to work.

When the glass in the front doors is fully closed, there is an opening at the upper rear of the window. I thought maybe the glass was not cut properly but it matches the bat-wing.

The second problem is there are no clips on my car for the channel and it's falling out without them. Should the channel be glued in?

The third problem is the glass channel in the rear doors. I ordered channel from Restoration Specialties (part # 3-A-1) and it appears to be too thick. With the channel installed, the window is too tight.

Any insight at all would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!