Replacing flat glass...

Lew · February 01, 2012, 06:19:24 PM

Re: the rust issue, there are some areas such as crevices, etc where the rust can't be removed easily especially where some
metal parts are folded onto each other, spot welded, etc. and are difficult to access and remove. Internal door assemblies are examples.
We've used a product called SEM 39308, Rust Seal. As posted , it's similar to phosp. acid and is a watery, milky fluid painted onto the rust only and neutralizes it leaving a black coating. It can be primed, Bondo'd, painted , etc. as posted by others. We got ours from our local body shop supply.
Over time, we've seen no rust comeback.

jcmiller · November 03, 2011, 04:59:01 PM

Thank you.

bigaadams · November 03, 2011, 03:22:54 PM

my recommendation..well that could be challenged at any turn in the road....I DO NOT DO RESTORATIONS...but I do try to follow the theme of the car...lets say your parts are black..and you want to use spray cans...my choice is after sandblasting to etch the bare metal with phosphoric acid..this will neutralize any rust left in a small pit not seen by the naked eye...after that I would use Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer in the spray can..let air dry then as this primer is a bit different (read the can) do force dry this in a baking chamber...once properly cured, then you can knock the gloss off with 0000 steel wool, or very fine paper, or my favorite... the 3M scruffy pad. I then coat with Rustoleum high gloss black..again once dry to the touch, bake this finish also...but for real durability I recommend that you use the Rustoleum in the quart can, mix this in a 8-4-1 ratio using a high quality enamel reducer per my recomendation, Evercoat High Gloss Acrylic enamel hardener..very generic and excellent cost and availability..most any enamel based fisheye eliminator will also mix with Rustoleum if you are spraying an inner fender or other large surface..your call..but I bet you will like the durability and shine of the black if catalized. This formula will also work with any of the Rustoleun enamel topcoats..make a believer out of you for sure..quality finish at lower cost..this is excellent for inner compartment work and chassis painting...lots of folks will do exterior panels using this method also..the quality reducer and hardener make this paint user friendly over the base product alone

8 parts paint
4 parts reducer (4 is guideline here, actually mix per viscosity for your gun/tip)
1 part hardener

few drop of fisheye eleiminator as you deem fit per your spraying enviroment.

jcmiller · November 02, 2011, 09:43:17 PM

Can you recommend a spray can primer and paint to use for this? Does your recommendation change for a part in the engine compartment such as an alternator bracket?

Quote from: bigaadams on October 28, 2011, 08:37:13 AM
I also recommend that you inspect your channel good..if rusty as most seem to be after the many years of service..quick freshen up with a sandblaster and prime/paint is my recommendation..

bigaadams · October 31, 2011, 01:38:59 AM

I believe tha average person if they take their time, lay out the work proper, pay attention to how the riser centers to the glass you can get the doors rebuilt wit out much problem..just do one door at a time and save the other for reference..when you are comfortable that one is right..the tackle the other side.

JimCno · October 30, 2011, 01:18:38 PM

QuoteAnother suggestion? Your local glass shop will be glad to do the work for you. Smiley

My biggest concern with taking it to a glass shop is I'm not sure the door windows are the correct original shape. They have been replaced before and I'm not sure they got the size and shape right so I figured I would order the glass from a company that already has the original templates.

I ought to take it into a glass shop and see if they would work with me by installing the glass if I bought it elsewhere. I'd hate to mess this up.

TodFitch · October 30, 2011, 01:16:08 AM

Quote from: JimCno on October 29, 2011, 08:27:29 PM
Thanks to all for the advice. I'm a little hesitant tackling this job so if anyone has any other suggestions, I'd be happy to hear them.

Another suggestion? Your local glass shop will be glad to do the work for you. :)

JimCno · October 29, 2011, 08:27:29 PM

Thanks to all for the advice. I'm a little hesitant tackling this job so if anyone has any other suggestions, I'd be happy to hear them.

John Hendricks · October 28, 2011, 01:25:57 PM

As I recall, I got the glass channel and new seal around the windshield frame from Roberts. Before u put the winshield in, get a big thick movers blanket and practice installing the frame back on the car. It will be a lot heavier with the glass in, but u can at least get the moves down as it is not an easy job getting the hinges alligned. I found a mobile windshield repair guy that was interested in old cars, and he came out and installed the window in the frame. Getting the new seal around the old frame was a long job but I finally succeeded.

bigaadams · October 28, 2011, 08:37:13 AM

for setting the glass in the channel, use glass setting tape..I have not seen any "new" of the older style that was the impregnated closth design...prior to removing the channel from the old glass do regard the channels positionon the glass..you would not want to set the glass and find that the channel interfers with internal components of the door..I also when setting the glass place the tape on the glass first, then wet the tape with mineral spirits as a softening agent/lube and slip the glass into the channel..let the solvent evaporate before doing a lot of handling..you will have to trim the excess rubber tape with a razor..good luck..it s really not that bad a job..

I also recommend that you inspect your channel good..if rusty as most seem to be after the many years of service..quick freshen up with a sandblaster and prime/paint is my recommendation..

Lew · October 27, 2011, 10:43:47 PM

There is a reference to "antisqueak" material ( looks like very thick muslin for lack of a better description) in the service manuals to set the glass in it's channels or frame. The procedure is to set the glass in the material which is placed in the groove and the glass tapped into place so it's hand tight.
Try Restoration Specialties or Steele's Rubber for the glass setting material and the rubber seals from front window frame to body.

JimCno · October 13, 2011, 10:17:32 AM

I have a '35 Plymouth which needs a new windshield and front window glass. My question is what kind of rubber is used to install flat glass in it's channel. Would it be a flat strip or a channel shape? Does anyone know how thick the material is?

And does anyone know a good source of instruction about replacing a flat, rollout type windshield?