1933 PC Water Pump

[martin pook]

Thankyou very much, I'll work from there. My car has spent its entire life in Sweden and I don't think it had run for about thirty years until recently.

[TodFitch]

The hub/pulley is one piece on the 1933. It is pressed on the shaft to the point where the impeller seal and bearing end play is correct and then drilled and pinned in place.

Later pumps had the hub pressed on in the same way but then the pulley was screwed onto the hub.

The housings are different for 1933 but the insides are basically the same up into the 1940s or 50s so rebuild kits are readily available. You will need a press to do the job right or contact some one like Arthur Gould http://arthurgouldrebuilders.com/ or Tom Hannaford at the Antique Auto Parts Cellar  http://www.maritimedragracing.com/then_and_now_automotive___se.htm

(If worse comes to worse, you can get a water pump new from NAPA for a P15 era vehicle and manufacture a new back plate to work with the different shape of the water inlet to the block on the 1933. The pump mounting studs are in the same location. Just a change in the shape of the inlet on the block which is rectangular on the 1933 (and, I think, on the 1934) with the half moon shape on the 1935 and up).

[martin pook]

Does anyone have a drawing - cross section of the water pump for a six? Mine has had the pulley welded to the shaft and is a bit of a mess. How should the pulley be fixed to the shaft? There is a spring holding the seal between the impeller and the housing and I assume that the nut holding the pulley onto the shaft was tightened against this, the back of the pulley running against the housing. But that seems a very poor way of ensuring drive between pulley and shaft. If you can't follow this description it coud be that the whole thing has been bodged.
Martin