engine paints

PlymouthSpDelux · March 19, 2011, 08:58:47 AM

Quote from: 1938P6 on March 05, 2011, 06:07:26 PM
Hi did you uses Por 15 engine enamal on your engine

No Por 15, just the Bill Hirsch paint (on the block and manifold). Yes, you are right, they are in New Jersey. They do mail order.

http://www.hirschauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=EE-QUART

PlymouthSpDelux · March 19, 2011, 08:56:01 AM

Spring is here! I can tell by the sudden interest in this paint discussion!

I emailed Mr. Hirsch last year asking him to consider making a silver that was more silver (and less gray). Perhaps if he heard from more of us, they might make it. They make a nice Chrysler red, so while I suspect his primary market is Packard, they might make paints for other cars.

Here's a link for the Bill Hirsch paint:

http://www.hirschauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=EE-QUART

CHS · March 15, 2011, 02:36:06 PM

The paint Bill Hirsch has to be ordered by mail. It is not as bright as the engine pictured on this topic.

plymouth 40 · March 13, 2011, 01:51:48 PM

;D

LOL , This is the Hybrid version of the P9 , sounds great ! ::)
I ordered some parts and new sparkplug cables in the USA so now i have to wait! until the package arrives.
takes about 2 weeks so with a Plymouth in Holland you must take time!

regards Paul

SD Glenn · March 11, 2011, 07:47:58 PM

I'm not sure, but, I think I saw one of these a lot of years ago. I'm thinking my mother told me it was called Plymouth, don't hold me to that thou.
Nice Job...
SD Glenn

TodFitch · March 11, 2011, 02:17:57 PM

Quote from: mvair on March 11, 2011, 01:55:30 PM
Is this one of those new electric conversions? I don't see any spark plugs. :P

I think he has those new InvisIgnition kits you haven't been hearing about. ;D

mvair · March 11, 2011, 01:55:30 PM

Is this one of those new electric conversions? I don't see any spark plugs. :P

plymouth 40 · March 11, 2011, 12:52:17 PM

Always nice to have your engine clean and shiny ;-) ;D

Still a lot of work to do, but there is progress..

regards Paul

1938P6 · March 10, 2011, 06:13:25 PM

Bill Hirsch do they sell that paint out Newark New Jersey or were do you buy it from thank you

CHS · March 08, 2011, 04:23:30 PM

I used a product called Bill Hirsch Hi Temp High Gloss Engine enamel. You can call them at 1-800-8282061. The color is aluminum, it is not brite aluminum like the color you get out of a spray can. It has been about 10 years since I painted the engine and the paint is holding up well. When you consider the engine block looked like a block of rust.

1938P6 · March 05, 2011, 06:07:26 PM

Hi did you uses Por 15 engine enamal on your engine

CHS · January 28, 2011, 02:15:52 PM

The engine looks great. I also used Bill Hirsch paint when I painted the engine in my car. You are right it has a gray tint to it. The good news, the paints lasts. It does not burn off. I painted my engine over 10 years ago and it is still looking good.

mvair · January 27, 2011, 07:42:48 PM

Your engine looks great!

1938P6 · January 27, 2011, 07:32:44 PM

Hello that looks great, I have been thinking about doing that to our 38. I think I will do that in the summer time thanks for the info

PlymouthSpDelux · June 23, 2010, 10:56:46 AM

Quote from: elmo on June 23, 2010, 02:54:42 AM
what type of paint did you use

The block: Bill Hirsch "aluminum" engine enamel (brush on).

The manifold: Bill Hirsch "bright aluminum" exhaust and manifold (brush on).

Inside fender wells, etc.: Bill Hirsch "super black" chassis paint (brush on).

Parts that I could remove and spray with a rattle can, like the air filter & brace, oil fill cap: Eastwood under hood black, Eastwood gloss black radiator, Eastwood diamond clear coat gloss and satin (for bare metal).

For priming the large areas, I found a heavy duty Rustoleum brush on paint, and then aerosol Rustoleum and Eastwood for smaller parts.

For the oil canister I used a spray paint made for grills. I think it was Rustoleum and the color was called white, but was more like ivory. I think I used a high temp clear coat over it. Not 100% sure about this. For the oil canister lid I used a Bill Hirsch "Chrysler red" aerosol.

When I cleaned whatever part as much as possible, prior to painting, I used Eastwood's "Pre-painting Prep" for the final cleaning before applying paint.

My two cents... I am not an expert, but am willing to share my experience.

I chose to brush paint my engine since I do not have painting equipment and did not want to fuss with airborne particles. I was told to be sure the temperature in my garage would be maintained at whatever the paint instructions said AND for the length of time the paint instructions said (something like 50 or 60 degrees for a week). It's hard, but resist the urge to rush it.

The Bill Hirsch aluminum engine enamel has more gray in it than the original bright silver Plymouth P-15 engine color. The Bill Hirsch bright aluminum exhaust and manifold paint is a perfect match for the original engine color. I do believe the two different paints were formulated for their specific purposes, with the engine enamel being more durable than the manifold paint. The engine enamel did not splatter, so was good to apply in such a confined area. I wrote Bill Hirsch requesting that he formulate a brighter engine enamel for old Plymouth engines. Maybe if more of us let him know, he would make a color to meet our specific needs.

The Bill Hirsch chassis black paint was the easiest and most forgiving paint I've ever used. Any brush marks that can be seen are from the primer, not from the chassis paint.

I put two coats on most everything... a painful thought when brush painting the engine block, but if you've put in such effort already, the second coat is worth it.

Be very careful if you clear coat on top of anything. I do not recall which part of the oil canister I had to strip down a second time because the clear coat attacked the paint.

For the small detail work, I found small brushes worked the best because I could manipulate them better than a foam sponge. I went to an art supply store and got an assortment of small brushes. For the larger areas, I used foam brushes. They are available in various sizes.

Always keep a rag or paper towel in your pocket, and have more nearby. Use lots of lighting, but be careful the light's not near a gas line or in contact with a surface.

As you probably know, once you improve one thing the rest looks awful, so you end up doing a lot more than originally planned. I never intended to do the inside of the fenders, but once the engine was looking pretty, it really made the rest of the compartment look bad. Ultimately, I pulled the radiator for easy access to the front of the engine. Then I got the radiator checked out at a local radiator shop, rebuilt the water pump, changed all the hoses, clamps and belt, etc.

In this age of digital photography, take pictures of everything. You will be your own best friend. You never know what detail you will need to search your photos for when reassembling stuff.

Take your time. I took MONTHS to do it. If you feel rushed, then it won't be enjoyable and you'll probably be seeking the services of a chiropractor! :D

I am attaching a "before" and "after" photo if it helps. (I know the radiator should be 100% black, but I enjoyed the challenge of adding the silver for contrast and like how it looks). The "before" photo is not totally before, since it is actually after I cleaned it! The "after" photo is not totally after since I have continued to tweak my work.

My car is a 1948 P-15.