What color?

[Carmen]

I have restored an Army Truck, Jeep and 2 trailers and I always used POR-15, after I had sandblasted the frame. But I also put on 2-3 coats of primer on each one before I painted them. I can truly tell you that after 10 years I have not had a problem with any of them. Granted they are all garage kept and seldom get rained on, but I have not had any peeling of paint at all.


Carmen

[mvair]

See my post just previous to yours about "Tie Coat Primer". You need to use it before you put on another top coat.

[52plym]

O.K.? Call me weird for responding like this.....I painted my rusty hatchway doors with POR-15 last summer.? They are now dull battleship gray.? Anybody know if I can just paint over it now with something like Rustoleum ?

[mvair]

POR-15 makes a product "Tie-Coat Primer" that adheres to POR-15 and serves as primer coat for any top coat. POR-15 is a rust sealer. It really is not needed unless you are painting over rust. I personally sandblasted my frame, used something like Rust Mort for any microscopic or hidden rust, and finally chassis paint. There was no need for POR-15 since I was not painting over heavy rust.

Here is the Tie-Coat product information from the POR-15 website.

Tie-Coat Primer is not a reactive coating (as is POR-15, which reacts to moisture), but its revolutionary
adhesion promotors make it an ideal interlocking prime coat between POR-15 and various topcoats.
It sands to a perfectly smooth finish. It may be used over well-seasoned POR-15 coatings even if
they are more than a year old, with no special preparation other than cleaning the surface.

[notdavidspade]

I've used POR products and they are very upfront that POR15 is UV sensitive.  That is why they advertise it as a base coat and they recommend you top coat it with one of their topcoats such as Blackcoat or Chassis Black.  Hope this clears things up. 

[FourDoor]

Sorry I should have been more clear in my statement that POR-15 is UV sensitive. That is the company's advice about where and how to use their gloss black product,not mine. I used up a can of it on a utility trailer about 4 years ago and the color is now dull and gray but I was curious what would happen as I already knew not to use it in the open. Some of it is peeling off as well but that may be my application. I had bought it to use as a chassis paint for my antiques and it works very well for that. Much thicker and of course can go right over rust- P aint O ver R ust.
? Anyways the POR-15 people will tell you not to use their gloss black where it will be exposed to sunlight. Perhaps your friend is polishing/waxing the paint and that is disguising the inivitable dulling of the surface. And I believe car polishes advertise they have UV blockers in their compounds that may well slow or stop the killing of the POR-15 surface. Also I may be confused,it may only be the gloss black POR-15 that has this problem??? The next time I'm at a fleamarket and a POR-15 booth is there I'll ask and put up a post one way or the other.? ?

[Go Fleiter]

If chemically compatible, color fading can be avoided by spraying a couple of clear UV Poly Urethan laquer on it. I successfully protected my restored dash black wood grain pigments with it 1997. No fading, but at least to more layers.
No experience with Por 15, but it is said to be first calss protection.
Greetings! Go

[elmo]

plymouths   as for POR-15 being UV sensitive , i have never used it i have had  no need to and probably never will i'm quite happy using standard type paint , but a friend of mine has a small Bedford ute (british) when he restored it he had the dash painted with POR-15 black gloss,the chassis was also finished in POR-15.   i painted the rest of the ute in Acrylic lacquer , this would have been about 5-6 years ago , and both the dash and the rest of the ute look as good as when the paints were applied . I should also mention that this is in New Zealand where we are supposed to have the highest consentration of ultra violet rays in the world, and the vehicle is used reguarly , summer and winter .

[elmo]

Carmen     back in the sixtys early seventy's when i was serving my time to become a car painter , i used to think black is black is black, and it was until modern technoligy gave us 2 pac paint and now clear over base, as for blue black it was primarily produced as a tinter only . when your car was made there would have been no such thing as a hardener to add to the paint. it would have been painted with  nitro cellulose lacquer, which of course is no longer available ,the next best thing to the original paint would be acryilic lacquer and from what i can understand is also becoming very hard to get in the US.  as for the frame it would been finished at the factory with chassis black which does have a gloss but not a high gloss, it was designed to cover easily in a couple of coats and mainly for protection not looks . if the cars you see at shows have a high gloss finish on the frame it will probably be 2 pac  and nowhere near what the original was like

[FourDoor]

POR-15 is very ultraviolet sensitive and any parts of the frame that get sunlight on them will go gray with time and lose their shine and go dull. It takes a few summers and a few shows but it finally happens. It's the biggest drawback of POR-15 and all their other products.?

[Pandanom]

POR-15 should have the right paint. Their semi gloss chassis black is beautiful. www.por15.com

[mvair]

I have heard different opinions about the paint used on the frame. After taking my car apart, I believe the frame was painted with a gloss black paint. Once again, it was black-black not gray or blue-black. The original gloss black paint was not carefullly applied and therefore a modern, carefully applied gloss black paint is too glossy. I ended up using a semi-gloss paint on most of the frame. There are many chasis paints that will achieve this look and color. I would not be as concerned about the exact shade of paint on the frame. I think I used the Eastwood paint. I did use gloss black if I was applying it from a rattle can for the smaller parts. That seemed to match the correct sheen as well. I would stay away from the high gloss polished paint look on the frame. I don't think the original finish ever looked like that.

[plym_46]

The code for the original laquer was DAL 9000.  When I had mine painted I used the European black formula. 

[Carmen]

Thanks for the come back.

That is why I posted the question. I have been to a number of shows and there is a real difference b/t black, midnight black, blue black, etc. you get the idea.

I did find a company called Restoration Shop. You type in the make, model and year of your car and they have a card file that will show you what paint was used on your car. They have my needs as  listed at $90.00 a gal plus reducer and harder.

Since I am doing most of the work myself I wanted to be sure that it was the right paint for the body, because my next question is what color black is used for frame? 

Thanks

Carmen

[FourDoor]

I don't know about your particular problem but I was surprised when I started in this hobby and found out they used to use a 'real' gloss black that is difficult if not impossible to find. I searched and searched for a real black like I found on parts from the 30s. Right now I'm using a gloss black enamel from Car Quest that is already stocked in cans out on their walk-in shelfs. It actually is BLACK when it dries,no matter what light you look at it in, instead of a shade of gray that the others are.
? By the way, the guys at Car Quest and NAPA are warning me that the days of paints with regular volatile thinners as the carrier are numbered. Sometime in 2010 all paints must be water based. And water based paints will not give the same colors and longevity as real enamels and acrylics. I would stock up on any chassis/parts paint you might need in the future or you may have to start another search for just the right color and appearance product. I'm restoring a car rigth now and when I settled on the color, I bought enough of the 2 part epoxy paint to do the job.? Just adding my 2 cents worth.?Good luck on the correct black for your '41.

[Carmen]

What is the correct "black"  color for a 41 P12.

Thank You


Carmen