where can i fond some parts?

[Go Fleiter]

Chief GWR, mailed You the foto posting procedure!
Happy new Year! Go

[GWR]

You have a great candidate there. As you probably know this is an early 30U. The late 30U's had oval rear windows, water pumps, and fuel pumps. I have two of the later ones, one is just a parts car at this point. Iam making mine as original as possible, but it is not "quote" restored. I want to be able to drive it and not worry about it. Besides my grandchildren love to ride in it and play.

I do have some extra parts just let me know if I can help you out. But, I see you have a horn. Keep this baby safe, as it was only issued in 1930 and is really hard to come by.

I will try to post some pictures of my car, that is if I figure out how.

[Bender]

i think that ill do that, anybody have the procedures for starting a car that has been sitting for 40 years? so i dont screw anything up, thanx

I think the first thing I would do is make sure it's stuck first. I have seen engines that sat for 20+ years spin freely,and other engines that only sat a for a year or two seriously stuck. Pull the plugs and then put a wrench or ratchet on the crank nut and try to turn it just a little bit. If it turns go ahead and fill each cylinder full of WD-40 and spin it over by hand several times,drain the oil,fill it full of fresh 30 wt non-detergent oil,and start it up.

If it doesn't want to turn with a wrench or socket,follow the steps below.

1: Pull the side plate and adjust all the valves so they are closed. If some don't want to close,you will have to pull the head and tap them closed with a plastic hammer.

2: Pull the oil pan and clean it out real good to get rid of all the accumulated sludge,condensation,and anything else in there.

3:Put the head back on and torque it down,and put the base pan back on. Do NOT put a gasket on the oil pan because you will be taking it off again.

4: Take the spark plugs out and fill each cylinder with carburetor cleaner. Buy a couple of gallons of it in 1 gallon cans.

5: Screw one of those devices into a spark plug hole in the head that is used to hold valves shut in OHV engines so people can change valve springs. I think they are called "valve hold open devices",but I have no idea why,since they hold the valve closed.

6: Hook your air? hose to it,and let the air pressure at 125 psi work the carb cleaner down past the rings. Take the oil breather cap off where you pour oil into the engine,and you can hear it when the air breaks through.

Now you know why you removed the side plate and closed the valves. If you didn't,you would have had to plug the exhaust manifold outlet some way to keep the carb cleaner from running out and you wouldn't have been able to build up any air pressure in the cylinder. The idea is to let the carb cleaner and the air pressure do the work to keep from placing any stress on your rings to keep them from breaking and scoring your cylinder walls.

6: Pour that cylinder full of WD-40,ATF,etc IMMEDIATELY,and let it start to soak down past the rings and lube the cylinder walls.

7: Go to the next cylinder in line,top it up with carb cleaner if any has leaked down,and then put 125 psi air pressure on that one until the air has forced all the carb cleaner past the rings.

8: Pour that cylinder full of WD-40,ATF,etc ,and move on to the next one.

9. Now that you have forced carb cleaner past the rings in all the cylinders,go back to the first one you worked on,top off the WD-40 or whatever you poured in there,and put 125 psi air pressure on that one,too.

10: Go back again after you have used air pressure to force the WD-40 past the rings in all of the cylinders,and do it again.

I personally like to use WD-40 right after the carb cleaner and then ATF after the WD-40,but that's just me.

11: Fill each cylinder with WD-40 or? ATF to the top,and let sit overnight so it can slowly seep past the rings to lube the cylinders. Let it sit overnight at a minimum. You do this because the carb cleaner has removed every trace of oil that was ever in the cylinders,and if you don't use the lubricants after the carb cleaner,it will start rusting right away. You want to allow it at least overnight to gradually work it's way around the ring grooves .

DO NOT screw the spark plugs back into the engine yet. If you do the lubricant you just poured in there won't seep down.

12 Go back the next morning and put a wrench on the crank nut and turn it over by hand several times. Pour a little 5w-30 engine oil in each cylinder,and turn it over by hand several more times.

13: Now that you can turn it over with a wrench,adjust the valves.

14. Remove the base pan again to clean out any debris that may have fallen and settled into the pan from freeing the engine up. Put the pan back on with a gasket this time,and torque it down.

15: Pour the engine full of 30 wt non-detergent oil,but do NOT put the plugs back in yet.

16: Hit the starter and let the engine spin long enough to build up oil pressure. Let the starter cool down,and repeat this several times.

17. After you have spun the engine with the starter several times to build up oil pressure,you are ready to put a tune up kit in the engine and start it it up.

For your own sanity it would probably be best to have already bought a carb rebuild kit so you could rebuild the carb while the engine was soaking down the first time,and? have it back on and ready to run once you get the plugs in it. Otherwise you will go a little nuts waiting for it to come in so you can get it to run steady.

It is always a good idea to have a fire extinguisher on hand when doing something like this.

Yeah,this is probably overkill. You could PROBABLY get away with just starting it right after freeing it with the carb cleaner without letting forcing WD-40 past the rings and then letting ATF seep down overnight. Then again,why take the chance of a stuck ring breaking and scouring the cylinder wall? A couple of gallons of WD-40 and a couple of quarts of 5w30 engine oil aren't that expensive.

Yeah,I have done this a time or ten. Never tried it on a flathead yet,though. Always done it on ohv engines,and they are a lot easier because all you have to do is loosen the rocker arms to get the valves closed.

BTW,if you ever decide to sell that coupe and haven't restored or hot rodded it,PLEASE give me first shot at buying it,ok? I LOVE original cars like that. If you do want a car to hot rod or restore,I have several candidates and maybe we could work out some sort of trade.

[cm67btl]

i think that ill do that, anybody have the procedures for starting a car that has been sitting for 40 years? so i dont screw anything up, thanx

[Bender]

here is a picture of my custom caar

YIKES! You call THAT car "rough"?????? You should see my projects.

If I owned that one,I think I would do whatever it was I had to do to preserve it and make it safe to drive,but I sure wouldn't restore or hot rod it. I'd even leave the pu bed in it because that was a pretty common sight back in the 40's and 50's. You have a time machine there.

[cm67btl]

only a small radiator leaked patched with cement, under radiator is rusted to hell, o and the previous owner didnt like the trunk so he put in a truck bed. but it is really nice, made back before ww 2, this sat for 50 years so any talk i say about the po is at least 60 years old

[cm67btl]

more

[cm67btl]

another

[cm67btl]

here is a picture of my custom caar

[Go Fleiter]

hope my e-mail arrives: sent You my dealer?s list plus foto posting procedure. Greetings! Go

[cm67btl]

thanks for all the advice guys, one question, how the heck do you post images, im trying to show you what i have to work with but i cant figure it out? better yet if you can come and see it and help me out it would be better, santa barbara area if anyone is close

[Bob]

Contact Chetbrz in the members section, he should be able to help you out.

As Todd said, the "Plymouth Bulletin" is another great source

[TodFitch]

Probably the best place for parts on a four cylinder would be the classified section of the Plymouth Bulletin, the magazine of the club that sponsors this web site, so go to the main section of this site and find out how to join the Plymouth Owners Club. The magazine is "free" with membership (actually the magazine is a big part of what makes the membership cost reasonable).

[elmo]

heres another couple of suppliers    www.robertsmotorparts  and www.then-now.com  you could also try www.Kanter.com or www. Atlas Obsolete.com . they all supply chrysler product parts

[notdavidspade]

You're on the right track hanging out here.? There are lots of friendly knowledgeable people.? Unfortunately... I'm just friendly and know nothing about a 30.? I've gotten a ton of advice on my 41 and encourage you to join the club.? It will be the best 28 bucks you spend on your car this year.? For parts I've had good luck with www.oldmoparts.com  Others are less enthusiastic about them but I've always had top notch service from them.  Also monitor ebay.  People here should be able to tell you what years are common to the 30 for an air cleaner.

[cm67btl]

hey my name is chris, im new here and i have a 1930 model 30-U. i seen to be missing an aircleaner, parts are kinda hard to find for this car from what i have been able to find. if anyone could help that would be great. if you were wondering it was used on a farm so its kinda rought, previous owner pulled the trunk and made a truck bed for it, also leaked alot, tryin to fix it up before i graduate on a very cheap budget if possible, thanx 8) 8