rocker panels

Started by Ron King, July 03, 2008, 12:50:51 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Ron King

 andy , thanks for the photos , the one of the nut and pocket helps a lot....

  I tore into mine tonight . once i removed the piece that was confusing me it became pretty clear. it turns out the piece that i was refering to as a  "drip edge " was just that , an old piece of metal trim for siding a shed or barn...
   mine is fine by the door , from the latch post back is gone,as is the bottom of the quarter panel. but i think there is enough left for me to replicate...  doesnt look easy but i think it is do-able.
                thanks to everyone that has helped me ...Ron
  •  

Andy Wylie

#8
Ron, I hope these are useful, the flange that sits on top of the floor pan has been lopped off



This is the 1/4 root nut I described which turns out to be a 5/16 caged nut (my memory is as bad as my spelling). I opted to beat a hollow for this and spot weld a tee nut, the original design being such a rust producing crud trap, I used weld through copper spray in the lap joints.



I saw your sheetmetal post, have a look here http://metalshapers.org/

Kent White makes good instructional videos

http://www.tinmantech.com/
P7 Utility Ch-Ch N.Z.
  •  

Ron King

 Andy .
       I can use all the photos that I can get !
                       Thanks for your help ...Ron
  •  

Andy Wylie

hi Ron, I fabricated some 39 rockers a few years ago. They consisted of an inner and outer skin but I made the outer in 2 pieces so I could use shrinking jaws to do the longitudinal curve after folding. The inner is spot welded to the outer vertical face below the floor pan and then has a fold so it runs out to the bottom edge of the outer and is then folded back in to form a flange which sits on top of the outer flange where they're spot welded. There are 1/4 root or hank nuts in this flange to attach the running boards and notches in the inner to clear the bolts in these nuts. I did have drawing of the folds I can't find but a have an old rocker a sawed to get a good cross section that I can photograph if it would help.
P7 Utility Ch-Ch N.Z.
  •  

Ron King

Bob , thanks for the photos, i do not have any brackets at all  , but those dont look to hard to fab up.  the piece of sheet metal behind the running boards, is that  like a drip edge  ?  I think that is the piece i am in question of that is on my car.  mine is held on with pop rivets to the rocker panel and appears to be a replacement piece . it is pretty thin ,maybe 22-24 gauge ?  Does that sound right ?
  behind that piece of "drip edge " is the main rocker panel , and mine is all rotted out, i have no idea what it use to look like ,every thing is so rusted that i cant tell the pieces apart from one another. it is gone up to and including part of the floor board. i assume there was a "box "  or a three sided piece back there  ?
   from what replacement parts i have been able to find photos of , nothing seems to look like what i need... the piece in question appears to be a structual stiffner for the door post and the connection point for that post ,the quarter panel and the floor board. i think it origionaly  may have run the full length from front fender to rear fender ?
   if anyone has had to make this repair, I sure could use some advice !  tomorrow i will try to get a better look at the whole thing , I may be totally wrong, but this is my first impression .

   as for the sill  trim pieces i have nothing ,  and cant see where anything ever was...
               

  I will try to get some photos of what i am  so poorly  trying to describe.

                           thanks once again for all your help ..Ron




























/
  •  

Bob

Ron,

I had my friend in Maine take these two photos off of his P10 Business coupe, hope it helps,
Bob
  •  

darren

 :)   I have a 40 Ply 4 door p10..... On my 4 door there are two brackets ..and as Bob mentioned.. are connected on the fenders ... at each end ... If you have the old running boards you will see slots for the brackets and where they go ... The door sills on mine are orginial ..  The sills are metal tube with foil over them ... If you have sills but are rough ... YOu can take off the foil wrap on them and do some body work on them  to make a decent attractive molding... ... I have had great fantastic results using Dave at Fat Fender Relics  1 360 260-0434 he might have waht you need .. If he dosen't call him every 2 mounths you never know when he might get them... He runs a used auto parts bussiness .. and is one of the last great places (old school) bussiness owner. Good -luck Happy PLY-mouthing ...DANiel
  •  

Bob

Ron,

My Plymouth had the running board delete option, but I do know that the Plymouths with running boards used two backets on each side along with the front edges of the running boards being bolted to the fenders, both front and rear.
I don't know for sure, but I think the brackets were bolted underneath the car on the frame.

As far as the door sills are concerned, I have had my car for twenty years, and have been unable to find them at a price that I think is fair.  VERY EXPENSIVE to have reproduced.

Also as far as I know, only rubber floor matting was used, no carpets.

Hope this helps,
Bob
  •  

Ron King

 I am looking for some photos of what my rocker panels should look like on my 40 coupe.  I need photos with the running boards off , and with the door open...I know this isnt something every one has ,but what i have now doesnt look right  and want to try and get it as close as I can. any help is most appreciated...
also can some one describe how the running boards are supported-mounted? I know they bolt into both F&r fenders, but that about he main body?
   last question for today, do these cars use a sill trim plate ?  carpet or just rubber mat ?
                                                    thanks again Ron
  •