valve adjust flathead six

[Carla]

If you want to take the time to be 'exactly right' with your tappet settings, have the right front corner of the car on a good car stand, pull the access panel and the tappet covers, then run the engine for half an hour's time, more or less, till its running temperature is thoroly stabilised.

Then, remove the spark plugs, and have a helper crank the engine over for you until no. 1 exhaust valve is at full lift. Chalk mark the damper or crank pulley, and have your helper turn the engine exactly one revolution, til your chalk mark is in the same location.

This assures you that the tappet you are about to adjust is exactly centred on the heel of the cam.

Adjust as usual, using the feeler gage for the setting you prefer as the 'go' gage, and a .001 or .002 thicker feeler as the 'not go'. Have the 'go' gage fit easily, and the 'not go' gage (obviously) not go through the space at all. Putting a dot of red paint on the 'not go' gage is a nice reminder as to which is which.

Wipe off the chalk mark, have your helper crank the engine til the next valve is at full lift, put on the next chalk mark, and so continue.

This makes it easier to get a correct 'feel' on the gage, as compare to setting valves with the engine running at idle.

This method might be a bit slower than the procedure given in the works manuals, about 'set numbers so-and-so when such-and-such number is at full lift', but its certain, and works on all side valve engines.

cheers

Carla

[JimCno]

My Plymouth is a '35. If you take off the side splash shield, remove the wheel and jack it up, the valves are fairly accessable. The other thing I have going for me is the engine has the newer tappets that are self locking, that is there is no locknut.

I just need two wrenches, make small adjustments and use a go-no go feeler gauge. I cut the finger tips off a cheap pair of work gloves to keep from burning my fingers on the manifold.

It actually turns out to be a fairly simple task. Once you know your tappets are adjusted, you seldom have to go back and do it again.

[dukjupiter]

thanks for the reply. just wanted to hear from somebody that had done it, figured i was okay but wasnt sure. how in the world can you do that when its running, it took me all afternoon with the motor off and still not sure if i got them right. quite alot of swearing along the way. maybe i'm just not doing right. i hold the lifter with one wrench, back off the nut on top of that(locking nut). set the uppermost nut to the clearance and then tighten the lock nut back on the lifter without changing the clearance. found this most difficult trying to maintain the clearance when tighting everything back up. oh well i could strip the threads on ketchup bottle putting the cap on, but i like to try to do it myself. thanks again for your help. dan

[JimCno]

Your fine. You won't see much splashing.

As a matter of fact, you are supposed to set your valve clearance with the engine warm and running. I've done that several times and have never noticed anything splashing out.

[dukjupiter]

I adjusted the tappets on my 38 plymouth and then ran the motor with the side covers off. I understand this to be a "splash" oiling system to the tappets but I don't see a lot of splashing going on. could somthing be restricting this? I previously took the pan down and cleaned it, and have good oil pressure, and no excessive noise. how much splashing should I see? I really did not rev it up much and also tried oiling the tappets with a squirt can and didn't notice any change in sound. also checked them all with a stethoscope and all sound the same. like peggy lee i'm asking "is that all there is?"