static timing

[JimCno]

Well, first of all, the engine turning over slowly has no relation to the timing. That would be a weak battery or bad connection.

Like I said, it's probably the timing. :P

I probably meant to say... "As far as I know... I don't know".

[36 Ply]

Congratulations, Ed, on getting your '47 engine running. My first car in high school (1962) was a '47 Special Deluxe 4 door, and I wish I still had it.

Regards,

Pat O'Connor

[EJParauka]

My timing was off 180 degrees, so I reset the distributor, and, voila, it started.  I'm so happy.   Ed Parauka

[p4jim]

My 30U turns slowly if the spark is too far advanced.  jim

[JimCno]

Well, first of all, the engine turning over slowly has no relation to the timing. That would be a weak battery or bad connection.

[EJParauka]

I think I got the static timing done, but not absolutely sure.  Anyhow, when I started it, the engine turned over slowly, and puffs of smoke occasionally popped up from the carberator.  Hmmm.  Now what did I do wrong?      Ed P.

[JimCno]

Be warned, some combinations of parts for these engines can be assembled so that they will set a trap for the unwary, in that the location of the timing-pointer on the cam cover is different, to be used with a particular pulley/damper. If the wrong combination of parts are assembled, the timing-pointer will be way out of alignment with the timing-marks on the pulley when the engine is at #1 TDC

Your engine is probably alright, with its correct combination of pieces. If one of these engines won't start when timed by the marks, tho, then using a special tool reading the #6 piston travel through the tapped hole in the head over #6 is the way to verify the timing-marks. The special tool is easy and cheap to make, nothing more than a little pin sliding through a brass fitting with a 1/8" NPT thread and a bore which allows the pin to slide easily with minimal shake.......I'll post a photo of mine if anyone needs to make up one for themselves.

Mine was one of those engines. I had bought an engine to rebuild and once I got everything together I could not get it started. I finally notice the timing indicator on the timing chain cover was in a different location than my original engine. That's when I pulled that plug over the #6 cylinder to make sure my timing was correct. I used a piece of piano wire and a dial indicator to locate TDC. I usually take pictures but I was so frustrated and eager to move on I never stopped to take pictures of this set up. Anyway, I was about 10-15 degrees off.

I used a silver marking pen to mark my TDC and it shows very brightly with the timing light.

[12905]

If you don't have easy access to whiteout, or a very thin artist's brush and white paint, white chalk will work perfectly well, although it's not permanent. Just rub the chalk across the timing marks until they are visible then gently wipe off the excess. Works every time!

[p4jim]

Carla, please post the picture.  My 30U has the same need.  Thanks, jim

[36 Ply]

I recall trimming down the brush that comes in a container of "Whiteout" (typewriter correction fluid), and dabbing the pointer and the correct timing mark with a (very) thin line of whiteout.

This makes it easier to see what you are doing when timing the engine with a timing light.

Regards,

Pat O'Connor

[Carla]

Ed,

There will be timing marks on the front pulley or damper, as the case may be.

All too often, they are not stamped in very well, and can be hidden by rust or paint.

The marks will consist of a line marked '0', and lines representing degrees on either side of the zero.

Sand the pulley/damper with medium fine emery paper until you can see the lines clearly....that may take awhile, but there's nothing else for it.

Have a look in your manual....it may specify TDC, 2deg before TDC, or some other setting....

Use a felt marking pen on the line specified in your manual, to make it stand out clearly when using a timing-light.

Be warned, some combinations of parts for these engines can be assembled so that they will set a trap for the unwary, in that the location of the timing-pointer on the cam cover is different, to be used with a particular pulley/damper. If the wrong combination of parts are assembled, the timing-pointer will be way out of alignment with the timing-marks on the pulley when the engine is at #1 TDC

Your engine is probably alright, with its correct combination of pieces. If one of these engines won't start when timed by the marks, tho, then using a special tool reading the #6 piston travel through the tapped hole in the head over #6 is the way to verify the timing-marks. The special tool is easy and cheap to make, nothing more than a little pin sliding through a brass fitting with a 1/8" NPT thread and a bore which allows the pin to slide easily with minimal shake.......I'll post a photo of mine if anyone needs to make up one for themselves.

(after removing the plug over #6, you have to drill out the carbon which will be plugging the hole through the head.....I can't remember the drill size off-hand....maybe 3/16"??)

cheers

Carla

[EJParauka]

Thanks Carla, will do as suggested. But where do I mark the TDC with the felt pen?   Ed P.

[Carla]

Hi, Ed,

I've put in this information two or three times already, on this board, and I believe some other folks have, as well.......so it will be in some of the older postings, a matter of doing a 'search' function.

Basically, the static timing procedure involves first verifying the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley or damper, by removing the little 1/8" NPT plug over #6 cylinder, and using an improvised special tool with a dial indicator to verify the TDC (top dead centre) mark on the pulley or damper.

If the TDC mark is correct, bring the engine to TDC with #1 cyl firing (take all the plugs out so that the engine turns easily, and feel for compression pressure in #1 as the engine turns slowly. That pressure indicates the piston is coming up on its compression stroke, so it wil be in #1 firing position when it reaches TDC.

Verify that the tongue on the dist rotor is aimed at the #1 spark plug wire position on the dist cap. It should be at 7 o'clock, but may have been incorrectly positioned with the oil pump gear, which drives the distributor, assembled incorrectly. The engine will run alright with any rotor position at #1 firing, as long as the plug wires are arranged in the firing order from that position.

With the engine at #1 firing TDC, turn the distributor in the same direction as the rotor turns when the engine runs, til the points are surely closed. (you will have replaced, or cleaned/polished the points, and set the point gap correctly first)

Then, turn on the ignition, and turn the distributor body back against the direction of rotor rotation until you hear a very tiny 'tick' sound, or see the points spark. Do this two or three times if necessary, so that you surely stop turning the dist body exactly when the points 'break'.

Snug the diist clamp screw, replace the dist cap, and start the engine. Having first made a felt-pen mark on TDC, or 2deg advance, as the manual may specify, set the timing with a timing light.....or, if you've no timing light, set by ear, advancing the spark until you hear the slightest bit of pinking on acceleration or under load up a hill, then retard back until the pinking disappears under the same load.

cheers

Carla

[EJParauka]

How do you static time a 1947 Plymouth flathead?  What tools are needed?  This is my first time at doing this and any explicit information will be greatly appreciated.     Ed P.