1928 Plymouth engine oil

[Richard Dryman]

Seems to me that a lot of guys should be using Photobucket for photos, etc.  It is totally free, you can post 500-1000?? photos and videos there--have automatic photo slide shows ( with adjustable time settings), and all kinds of things. Large photos can be uploaded just like small ones.
All you have to do is list the Album link and anyone can see whatever. I have probably 20 albums there--grandbabies included.

When I sold a car on e-bay--I listed the llinks and potential buyers saw 80 photos with titles in a slide show and a video showing the car running, etc.  All of this COST nothing !!!  Goodness knows what the ebay charge would be just for the photos---oh, they are almost FULL screen photos.

If you can't post a photo here because of size etc. then use  www.photobucket.com and just list the link.

You guys could show 20 photos in a slide show of something here [in a heartbeat !!!]
have at it.

[chetbrz]

I designed a setup for a oil filter for my 29 Pymouth, although considering how fine the mesh is in the oil pickup screen, it probably is not neccessary .? I tried to make it look like it could be a period accessory, but of course it is not.? I made it so that it is easy to convert back for shows.? I guess the picture files are too large to post here.

Hay John, that sounds very interesting.  I am kinda curious about your removable setup.  If you don't mind you can email me the picture.  my email is

[johnRFain29U]

I designed a setup for a oil filter for my 29 Pymouth, although considering how fine the mesh is in the oil pickup screen, it probably is not neccessary .? I tried to make it look like it could be a period accessory, but of course it is not.? I made it so that it is easy to convert back for shows.  I guess the picture files are too large to post here.

[David Pollock]

Chet, I do not have a picture, I could take one but I would still be in the dark as to how to send it.

If you can send me a personal message with your email address, I could scan and send it that way.  This is rather a busy time of year for me (farmer) so I don't have time for much of anything out of the ordinary.

The last post on the multiviscosity oils offers some good advice, and I did at first use 10-30 in my 28 but it seems to run more quietly with 30 HD.  or maybe I am just getting deafer. Next change I will try a 15-40.   dp

[12905]

All oils thin as their temperatures rise, but single viscosity oils thin out much faster than muti-viscosity ones do. A straight 30 oil is quite thick at, let's say, 50 F, but by the time it gets to 150 F it literally runs like water. Therefore, it does not easily pass through bearing clearances when cold, and may not provide a thick enough "cushion" when hot - not the best of either world. In contrast, a multi-viscosity oil, let's say a 15 - 50, starts out cold with approximately the same viscosity as a straight 15, but as it warms up long chain molecules "hold it together" better than a single viscosity so that when it reaches full operating temperature it has roughly the same viscosity as a hot straight 50.

I don't think there is really any room for debate. If you want to give your engine the best of all oil worlds use a multi-viscosity oil with the biggest spread in viscosity rating? from a reputable manufacturer and change it regularly - especially if you drive short distances.?

I remember from the lectures on engine oils that an engine started cold, put under moderate load quickly after starting and then driven "normally" needs an uninterrupted drive equivalent to about 15 km (10 miles) to boil off the contaminants that entered the oil when the engine was started (water, raw gasoline, a few acids, etc,. etc.). This is true in all climates, but more so, of course, in those where the ambient temperatures at start-up can be at freezing or below. I have always followed this advice: I never start one of my cars cold (even a daily driver) unless i am prepared to drive it the minimum distance to warm it properly.

[chetbrz]

The oiling system on a 28 Plymouth is a natural for the addition of a full flow filter which can be hidden in the frame rail if it needs to be hidden at all.? I made a bracket to hold it right to the pump cover. I use a 30 HD oil year round.?

Dave,

Do you have a picture of the Full Flow oil filter setup for the 28/29 engine.

Tks, Chet...

[David Pollock]

Tod says it all but I will add 45 years of experience.  In the early 60s my uncle took over a Quaker State distribution agency and his warehouse was on our farm. He would sell me oil at wholsale prices or at a discount for damaged cans. Since then I have always used GOOD oil and have had no significant trouble in hundreds of thousands of miles behind our favourite flatheads.  Teardown always revealed a clean bottom end although there is generally an accumulation of crud in the bottom of the pan, that is quite normal.

The oiling system on a 28 Plymouth is a natural for the addition of a full flow filter which can be hidden in the frame rail if it needs to be hidden at all.  I made a bracket to hold it right to the pump cover. I use a 30 HD oil year round.  In my newer Plymouths I use the original bypass filters and 10-30 detergent oils. I generallly change oil once a year or every 2500 miles.  On a car that is used more often, I would change the oil every 2500 miles, no matter what the time interval is.

[TodFitch]

I guess every old car forum covers this one on a periodic schedule. Any the proponents of one side never seem to give ground to those on the other. :)

IMNSHO, use modern oil.

Background: The "detergent" in modern oil is just enough to help suspend new contaminants until you can do an oil change. It is not enough to scrub out or loosen the crud that you find in old engines that had poor maintenance or were run for years with single weight non-detergent oil. So there is no harm in running it in a old engine.

And if you are worried about modern oil loosening the old crud then what you really ought to do is drop the pan and remove the valve covers and clean out all the crud you can. Starting up and running an engine with loose old crud, regardless of the type of oil, could well move some of it in to places you don't want it to be like the bearings.

And if the engine has been recently rebuilt then there is absolutely no reason to use archaic oil when the modern stuff is so much better. To get a multi-viscosity oil you have to get a detergent oil and the multi-viscosity (e.g. 10w-30 or 20w-40, etc.) does so much better job of start up lubrication and maintaining oil pressure at high engine temperatures.

[hemibadfish]

Does anyone know what engine oil should be used in an original 1928 Plymouth 4 cylinder? I heard from several people that current engine oils should not be used due to high detergent levels. Does someone make a suitable oil and where can I get it.

Thanks