1931 PA Ignition coil location?

[BryanD]

Well, your coil is more "original" than mine.  I have a separate coil which is currently "hung" under the dash near the ignition key.  The previous owner suspended this from the Oil pressure gauge line (!) with zip ties.  I definitely need to remedy that.  My ignition key is also a newer item.  I'm going to find a better way to mount this separate coil -- I'll probably rig up a bracket and find some existing bolt on the firewall or inside the dash.  The visibly "weakest link" in this system is the 6V line from the coil to the points.  It is very old cloth insulated line and the metal inside is noticably corroded (at least at the ends).  SO: I'm going to replace that line with newer wire.  For now I won't worry about keeping the wire "vintage" -- I can always "retro-fit" if I decide that's an issue.  If that doesn't solve the problem, I'll try a new coil -- possibly wiring it up (temporarily) out in the engine bay so that I can easily troubleshoot the whole system.

I won't get to any of this for a few days -- I'll let you know how it goes and what I find.

FYI: I want to keep the car "mostly" original but I don't intend to show it "for points" so I'm willing to accept some modern components for driveability and maintenance.

[32cabrio]

Bryan, If the the '31 is like the '32, the coil and the ignition switch are connected together with the switch arrangement mounted on the base of the coil. probably what happened is on of two things; 1] the mount arrangement to the dash os somewhat loose and the fact that  you hit the "tracks" firmly may have opened up the connection between the switch and the coil. 2] More likely; and this happened to my '32, is the switch contacts are dirty with some wear in evidence. My car would just shut down arbitrarily. Sometimes going out the drive or 30 miles into a tour. All things were explored; Fuel and electric. No cure. Once when it happened I happened to be looking at the AMP METER. The car was at idle and the meter was showing a discharge. I saw the amp meter center itself as the engine quit. I tried the starter, no go. I fidgeted with the switch and saw the amp meter go to discharge. I pressed the starter and the car started immediately. The original switch had turned itself ever so slightly and would disengage at the contact and shut the motor down. I found that I can move the key so I see a discharge on the amp meter and the key feels firm at that point. The car runs fine now with no further shut-down problems. I left it this way as my preference is to keep the original arrangement. To try and repair this entails bending the tabs holding the switch to the coil. They are too fragile to mess with. I may have to bite the bullit at some point and replace the whole coil/switch with a separate arrangement. Finally, I would check the contacts for the fuse that is on the back of the amp meter. If they are corroded, this could be your problem. Hope this long post helps. Let us know how you make out...

[BryanD]

Hmmm... OK I'll make some kind of decision then.  I find the "under the dash" location inconvenient because you can't see/reach all the relevant contacts for testing "at once".

My ignition problem is as follows -- the car was running fine and then took a bit of a "shock" (from some rough railroad tracks) and died instantly.  There is fuel visible in the pump and the carb, so its not fuel.  There is no spark visible.  The points, rotor, and cap are secure, functioning, and in good shape.  I have a theory that the (rather poorly done) current mounting of the ignition coil allowed it to jostle into something shorting out the low voltage wires and (maybe?) damaging the coil and/or the wires.  Also the low voltage wire from the coil to the points is in very bad shape.

Oddly, when testing for spark on different plugs, at one point the engine very briefly fired and seemed to have spark, but then "went dark" again.  When I open the points I do see 6V on the contact so that seems to be in order.  I may get a spare coil and wire it up temporarily in the engine bay for testing.  Ultimately I need to mount the coil more securely (either under the dash or in the engine bay) and replace the low voltage line to the points.

[32cabrio]

Bryan, It all depends on what you're going to do with the car. For show, it needs to be located under the dash where it is now. The '32PB is the same. If it's for driving/touring, under the hood or wherever you like is OK. It's your car, do what's best for you. Not sure what your "ignition issues" are but the basics still apply. Be more specific and I'm sure you'll get good advice here. I can tell you that with a 6 volt system, the #1 rule is to have good, clean, tight grounds through out the car. Hope this helps...

[BryanD]

I'm having some issues with the ignition on my PA and may do some rewiring.  The ignition coil is currently under the dash (near the key), which I find somewhat inconvenient.  I've seen a picture of a PB engine bay where the coil was mounted high on the firewall near the horn.  Any advice on whether this alternate location is acceptable?

...thanks in advance :)