first post---brake upgrade

John Hendricks · August 21, 2006, 11:19:34 AM

It was in the manual for the 40 dodge pickup-I have a 40 Ply but they didn't make a manual. Without going to look, I THINK THE PEDAL ATTACHMENT IS SLIGHTLY different in the 32. But i did the 4x4 thing anyway on the 32 with good results, except i wasn't as careful about tiny airbubbles in the DOT5 brake fluid as i should have been so I had to do it twice.

32cabrio · August 21, 2006, 07:46:34 AM

Quote from: John Hendricks on August 20, 2006, 11:43:39 AM
When u bleed the brakes, follow the proceedure in the manual--I know every one knows how to bleed brakes.? I ran into the same problem u have ,so I finally read the brake section in the manual, and when it still didn't work, I followed the instructions.? Don't push the pedal all the way to the floor-put a piece of 4x4 under the pedal so it won't go to the floor.? That last little bit of "pedal" before it hits the floor changes the angle of the pushrod just a bit so it tips and allows a little bubble of air into the back of the MC
John, Is this a Plymouth specific procedure or specific to the '40? I've never seen it before and it is not detailed that way in my '32 manual. Thanks, '32 Cabrio[/i]

40mopar · August 21, 2006, 12:12:35 AM

Thanks for the tip. I guess I should give it one more try before I scrap the whole system. I'll try the 4x4 trick and also follow factory instructions (again). Now to find someone to push the pedal ::).

John Hendricks · August 20, 2006, 11:43:39 AM

When u bleed the brakes, follow the proceedure in the manual--I know every one knows how to bleed brakes. I ran into the same problem u have ,so I finally read the brake section in the manual, and when it still didn't work, I followed the instructions. Don't push the pedal all the way to the floor-put a piece of 4x4 under the pedal so it won't go to the floor. That last little bit of "pedal" before it hits the floor changes the angle of the pushrod just a bit so it tips and allows a little bubble of air into the back of the MC

TodFitch · August 20, 2006, 03:22:07 AM

Since you have replaced and/or rebuilt everything, my guess is there is one flare end that just is not sealing properly. I took me a while to chase all those down when I rebuilt my brake system.

In my case, just because I had a good tool for making double flares did not mean that I got all of them right the first time. :)

If you have a pressure bleeder you can keep some pressure in the lines for a while then go around all the tubing, couplings, hoses, etc. and see if any are getting damp. Lacking a pressure bleeder, you could block the brake pedal down (or have someone else press the pedal) while you examine for leaks.

40mopar · August 20, 2006, 12:04:14 AM

The main problem I'm having is that I can't get the pedal to stay firm. I'll bleed the brakes get a good pedal only to come back an hour later and have it go straight to the floor. I've replaced every line, bought a new Master Cylinder, bench bled it before installing, inspected and rebuilt all wheel cylinders and still no permanent pedal. I gues that I'm just very frustrated and looking to eliminate the problem by converting to disks although they'll probably be as big of a headache.

Wm Steed · August 18, 2006, 06:16:54 PM

I have always been of the mind set "that if it ain't broke, don't fix it" I think you will find that if you get GOOD PARTS for your stock brake system, the system will work very well for average driving. If you intend to go fast with an improved high performance engine, then an upgrade to disk brakes might be in order. If you opt for the disk brakes you should go all the way with rack pinion steering, etc, in other words, a new front subframe from one of the speciality houses.

My '39 Plym conv spent a good portion of it's life pounding over the gravel roads of Montana so the whole front end was junk, many of the components had been broken and welded back together many times. I also wanted to improve the power and power train so a new front clip was the easy way to solve the problem. My car drives like a dream at 75+, it also stops right now in a straight line with 11" disk on the front and large drum on the rear. I have known several people that have tried to do a brake upgrade on the cheap only to find out that they could not drive the car because it was to unpredictable....Bill

Bob · August 18, 2006, 05:02:08 PM

What are the problems you are having with your brakes on your Plymouth?

When the brakes work on these old Plymouths they are fine. Before you go to the expense of converting them, you might want to discuss your brake problems here on this site,
Fellow 1940 Plymouth owner,
Bob

40mopar · August 18, 2006, 01:36:43 PM

Hello to everyone, I'm new to the board. I think this may be my first post. I own a 1940 Plymouth Business Coupe. With the original L6 in between the framerails. (I'll post some pics when she's presentable.) I am trying desparately to get it road worthy and have been stumped by a braking problem for what seems like forever. Problems with the original system have lled me to the decision to upgrade to front disk brakes. I've seen a couple of different kits out there but, I'm probably going to order a front caliper kit from Charlie Akers (www.rustyhope.com)due to the fact that he's a fellow HAMBer and member of p15-D24.com and all of the proceeds go to the restoration of his 1950 Mopar (lol). However, before I plunk down the money for his caliper brackets, I wanted to begin lining up the additional parts that I will need in order to put the rest of the kit together.

I'd also like to upgrade the master cylinder in the process but don't want to move it from the stock location if possible. Any one have any ideas on which MCs will work in the stock location, and if I can't keep the MC frame mounted, whats the next best and simplest option for location of the upgraded MC i?