1934 Why so special or different ..???

[Riggerfritz]

The inlet to the block on the 1933/34 cars is a rounded square while the inlet on newer blocks is a half-moon shape. If you bolt the later pump onto the earlier block there will be a gap that dumps your coolant on the ground. When you get your new pump in, just compare the backing plate of the old and the new and it will be pretty obvious.

Thank you My friend...!!!
I did order the 35 pump and I'm sure it will be fun fitting it to My PE...
I will keep you posted and thanks again..
Fritz

[TodFitch]

The inlet to the block on the 1933/34 cars is a rounded square while the inlet on newer blocks is a half-moon shape. If you bolt the later pump onto the earlier block there will be a gap that dumps your coolant on the ground. When you get your new pump in, just compare the backing plate of the old and the new and it will be pretty obvious.

[Riggerfritz]

I think the difference in 51 and 52 water pumps are due to internal versus external bypass for when cold. I think the new manufacture water pumps are setup so they can be used on either but am not entirely sure.

I will check that out when I get the 52's water pump.

And now after looking for rebuild kits for the 34 and not finding even a whisper of a rumor that one can be obtained.
I think I will go with the adapter plate you talked about making..
I'm sure it will be self evident as to what needs adapting, however I will ask if you have a quick explanation as to what that is..??
again thank you for the help and information..

[TodFitch]

SO very thankful..!!!
I just happen to be a machinist SO I will Get the rebuild for the 35 and do just that (also make a adapter plat while I have it off) ... Again Thank so very much.

Now next dilemma is My 1952 Dodge truck,, ALSO needs a water pump...🙄🙄
I have seen where the 1951 and 52 are different then the 1950 ??
If it all holds true for the rebuild I will do that also..!!!

I think the difference in 51 and 52 water pumps are due to internal versus external bypass for when cold. I think the new manufacture water pumps are setup so they can be used on either but am not entirely sure.

[Riggerfritz]

SO very thankful..!!!
I just happen to be a machinist SO I will Get the rebuild for the 35 and do just that (also make a adapter plat while I have it off) ... Again Thank so very much.

Now next dilemma is My 1952 Dodge truck,, ALSO needs a water pump...🙄🙄
I have seen where the 1951 and 52 are different then the 1950 ??
If it all holds true for the rebuild I will do that also..!!!

[TodFitch]

Thank you ...
So I assume that is the reason why the water pump is hard to find for the 34 opposed to the 35 witch is readily available ..!!!
But it doesn't change that fact that I still need it rebuilt and yet to find a resource for a kit or new a remanufactured one ..Ha

Yes, the 1933/34 water pump has a different opening into the block than the later water pumps. The good news is that the internals are the same as later pumps so vintage rebuilding kits are readily available if you wish to do it yourself. You do need some machine shop skills and tools to do it which I don't have (only rebuilt one when I had access to a lathe and press at work). So I usually send mine off to a rebuilder.

Hint: It is easy to over tighten the generator/fan belt which will wear out the "plain bearings" (i.e. bushings) in the pump quite rapidly. Once I got smart and just tensioned the belt with the weight of the generator that problem went away and my rebuilding frequency dropped dramatically.

Last time I got one rebuilt I used Arthur Gould Rebuilders http://www.arthurgouldrebuilders.com It is my understanding that Arthur has passed away but one or more of his sons are carrying on the business.

Alternatively, you can buy a new or rebuilt water pump for a 1935 and newer then make a custom back plate for it to adapt it to the 1933/34 block inlet. The mounting holes and all other critical measurements for fit are the same.

[Riggerfritz]

Thank you ...
So I assume that is the reason why the water pump is hard to find for the 34 opposed to the 35 witch is readily available ..!!!
But it doesn't change that fact that I still need it rebuilt and yet to find a resource for a kit or new a remanufactured one ..Ha

[TodFitch]

The engine block on the 1933 and 1934 was narrower. They went to full length water jackets and added the water distribution tube in 1935 which made the block a bit wider.

However the engine bearings, pistons, cam, etc. are the same for the 189.8 cu.in 1933 through the 201 cu.in. 1941 Plymouth engines. Engine stroke increased in 1934, so the 1934 through 1941 rods and crank are interchangeable.

The engine gaskets, other than the head gasket are the same from 1933 through the end of the production in the 1970s (for industrial uses).

If you feel obliged to put a later engine into a 1933 or 1934 the "gotcha" is on the starter: When they widened the block they repositioned the starter on the bell housing. It takes some modifications to fit the starter if you are using a 1933/34 bell housing with a later engine.

[Riggerfritz]

As I look for motor parts for My 1934 PE coupe I find that all available parts starts at 1935 to 1950 ...???
What is so special about the 1934 motors ..???
My Block number is PEI64400