1937 Chrysler/ Mopar floor shift removal

[Go Fleiter]

nice help for ne!
Thanks!
Go

[Keithb7]

Hi Folks, I am new to the forum here. I own a 1938 Plymouth P6 4 dr sedan. "SpecialID", it is unlikely that removing your shifter will help you troubleshoot why your transmission is grinding. I just rebuild my transmission in my '38. Yours will be identical.

There is only syncro-mesh action on gears 2 and 3. Low and reverse have no syncro-mesh.  For a thorough explanation of the workings of the transmission, see my You Tube Video here:
https://youtu.be/RoMgbZu5OSI

I have been uploading several educational videos on the various systems of our old Mopars, with the intention of helping others.
A list of all my videos can be seen here:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVoBq2i7wl4w0W4JB6cAMjg/videos

[Go Fleiter]

to: clutch cover.
at our speeds everything I replaced was well enough balanced, less the propeller shaft, which (although beeing symmetrical) had marked a foward end. Once, not caring of this, it had a big balance error. Turning it over was enough for immediate relief.

The clutch cover is less mass, so it is less prone to vibrations than the shaft.
Together with the other parts, You may let the assembly balance out. Than mark their positions. If not: just try!
When putting fly wheel, disc, springplate, release bearing with sleeve and cover together, a good centering device is useful!

Good succes!!
Greetings from Düsseldorf!
Go

[SpecialD]

Thank all kindly for the information.
What was a bit confusing, was that I was able to drive the car around the block, shifting well, then after rebuilding the brakes, unable to get out of neutral.
My plan is to pull the clutch for inspection of the release bearing.
I noticed that I could purchase new parts at Andy Burnbaum. The shop manual states to mark the clutch cover and flywheel in order to maintain balance. If I replace the clutch cover as new, does that effect balance with flywheel?

[Wm Steed]

If the vehicle has not been operated since 1952, the gear oil has most likely turned to a sticky goo that is no longer fluid. The gear lube in the trans and rear end should be changed, replacing same the correct weight which probably is 90 w.
You should also repack the front wheel bearings and replace the seals. Over time the wheel bearing grease will turn hard, settling into the hub.
To remove the trans cover the floor boards have to be removed. The gear grinding you are encountering could be a result of the '37 trans not being synchronized, many of the transmissions did not have synchro's until '39. Wm. 

[TodFitch]

I am not as familiar with the '37 as with the earlier cars, but no: You need to remove the floor boards. At least you need to on the '33 and '34 and from what I've seen of the diagrams for the later 1930s Plymouths even though the design is different the result is the same.

[SpecialD]

I recently purchased a 1937 Chrysler Royal that had not been driven since 1952. After rebuilding the fuel, coolant, brake systems, the car runs well. The floor, however,  shifter grinds when attempting to place in gear. The clutch pedal has been adjusted correctly, still unable to get in gear.

The shop manual advises to remove the floor boards in order to remove the transmission/clutch. Is there a way to remove floor shift lever without removing the floor boards?

I am relatively new to the restoration process, any advise would be greatly appreciated.