Timing with Timing light- '39 P-8

[36 Ply]

Tod, thanks,
Skinned Knuckles announced a month or so ago that the Jan. issue would be about modifications to antique cars (seat belts, electric fuel pumps, overdrives, converting to hydraulic brakes, 12 volt conversion, radial tires, etc. This goes against their editorial policy, and was to be a one issue only project.

I emailed them my little saga of replacing my pump and what it took to get things right; they decided to run it in their recurring "What went wrong" feature. Actually, they rearranged the story a bit and cropped part of it (I was getting 8 mpg after installing the Carter pump, but before installing the pressure regulator). After reading the editorial comments following, I emailed the editor, assuring him that the rubber fuel line I was using was rated for regular gasoline, gasahol and diesel (but not fuel injection), and that it was routed well away from the exhaust system, for safety and to keep the fuel cool, and that the Carter pump was a rotary vane type, so there is no bellows to be attacked by gasahol. I went on to say that I will install a second fuel filter near the carburetor, to trap anything that might break loose in the fuel line.

Bob-I got my copy of SK in the mail yesterday; I haven't checked online yet; if you need any info, email me. Thanks,

Pat O'Connor

[RC Drown]

Pat, by Tod's posting, do I understand that you wrote an ariticle for "Skinned Knuckles"?

I don't subscribe to it, but went on line to look at the article, it is only parcially there, looked real informative

[TodFitch]

plym_46

Andy Rooney is my hero; he wrote a book entitled "My War" about his experiences as a Stars & Stripes correspondent in WWII.

And I agree with you 110% about feedback when you give advice on this forum; did the advice help, did you find a better way to do things, etc?

A while back, several of us replied to an inquiry about electric fuel pumps; I posted a lengthy how-to response; Go Fleiter added a diagram, and......nothing.....never heard another word on the topic....did the advice help, did the person decide against it...did he find a better way.....who knows....this is my pet peeve, and I'll not respond to any more inquiries from that person.

Pat O'Connor

Regarding fuel pumps and feedback, I saw your "what went wrong" article in the Skinned Knuckles issue that arrived today. Congratulations!

[36 Ply]

plym_46

Andy Rooney is my hero; he wrote a book entitled "My War" about his experiences as a Stars & Stripes correspondent in WWII.

And I agree with you 110% about feedback when you give advice on this forum; did the advice help, did you find a better way to do things, etc?

A while back, several of us replied to an inquiry about electric fuel pumps; I posted a lengthy how-to response; Go Fleiter added a diagram, and......nothing.....never heard another word on the topic....did the advice help, did the person decide against it...did he find a better way.....who knows....this is my pet peeve, and I'll not respond to any more inquiries from that person.

Pat O'Connor

[plym_46]

Dont' wanna sound like Andy Rooney here, but wouldn't it be nice to have a reply back to suggestions made in answer to a query?

Dontcha sometimes get discouraged when you try to lend a hand and get no reply as to how things worked out?

Maybe we should all just be quiet....wouldn't be much of a forum then would it???

[plym_46]

Since  today's fuel is much different from when your car was built, (volitility, flame front, btu content) factory timing settings, except to find initial tdc to do a static timing for an initial firing,are moot. It's probably more appropriate to use a vacuum gauge to set timing.  Attach the gauge to the intake manifold and with the engine at idle, adjust the timing to achieve the highest steady vacuum rating. Sug but do not tighten the dist calmp, then if necessary adjust the idle if it speeds up appreciably with the new timing setting. This will take into account the present operating conditions.  Road test to assure no spark knock under acceleration or hill climbing.  If knock is present retard the setting till the knock dissapears and lock down the dist.

[TodFitch]

Either the front (#1) most or rear most (#6) cylinder should work: They are 180 degrees off on the cam or 360 degrees off on the crank. Since you measure on the crank and 360 degrees is a full rotation they will show the same on the strobe on the pulley.

However, usual way to time these old Plymouths is "statically". In that case you rotate the engine until the engine is at top dead center on #1 then adjust the points to just open. Point gap should be 0.020" which should work out to be 38 degrees of dwell.

For what it is worth if you do time it while running, your mechanical advance specifications for 1939 are:
0 degrees at 350 RPM
3 degrees at 400 RPM
6 degrees at 950 RMP
9 degrees at 1500 RPM
11 degrees at 1850 RPM

Your vacuum advance:
2 degrees with 6 3/4 in of vacuum
11 degrees with 17 in of vacuum

[DENNIS P NOLAN]

Timing- In using my timing light- is it the cylinder closest to the radiator-?? or back by the firewall-?? and also- what would the spec be-???