Woodgraining

Go Fleiter · January 23, 2009, 12:33:27 AM

next attempt: 2 pics, one the yellow pasty base, the other ready. Sorry must make new pics this summer.

Go Fleiter · January 22, 2009, 03:44:24 PM

sorry, site refuses to accept 2 more pics. I?ll try later! Go

Go Fleiter · January 22, 2009, 03:25:44 PM

Beautiful results, boys!! Mine followd the very different, abstract character of Briggs Body painting. I did all the graining by artist?s brush. It got a thin coat of red and came out like the Brigg?s. Don?t have nicer shots.
The Yellowish base (next post) has a texture a bit like blotting paper, so the ink runs very fast and nicely. This was a german product.
Convertible dash is welded, so I had to build the foil tent inside.

Carmen,
remember that most Inks are light sensitve. That is why I too out 5 coats of clear polyurethane laquer over all. No fading since ~9 years.

33plycoupe · January 22, 2009, 11:58:40 AM

Carmen,
I had my window garnish pieces bead blasted (very carefully) at a local powder coating shop. They then powder coated a primer onto the pieces. They came out very nice and clean. Next I applied the paint base coat recommended by Grain-It. By the way, the dash trim piece below the windshield had the original color on the backside and the base paint provided by Grain-It matched it perfectly. After drying, all you have to do is apply the water based ink with the tools provided by them. I purchased the larger template and roller. That makes it easier. I would add that the "blending" mentioned by Grain-It folks isn't as easy as they show, at least for a newcomer. I got very good at blending with a small firm bristled artists brush. I placed a small amount of ink on a small glass plate and added water to obtain the color and thinning of the ink I desired. The nice thing is that if you make an error you simply wipe away the troubling area and start over. I did notice you have to be careful because even though the ink is water soluble some residue will stay on the base coat if not careful. After letting the ink dry for a few hours, (I let mine dry overnight.) you begin the final process of applying the clear coat. I did have to order more of the ink and base coat because of repeated attempts to obtain the result I desired. I used a spray can of clear laquer for the clear coat. As stated, I sanded lightly after each coat, and applied a total of 6 coats. I'm sure 4-5 coats would be fine. One thing I noticed, the fewer the coats of clear applied will give you a textured look at the surface when looking at if from different angles. Even after 6 coats I noticed a slight texture to the surface in certain light. If you take your time, and perhaps experiment on another piece of metal, you will be pleasantly surprised at the nice results. Good luck. If you have any further questions feel free to email me.

Carmen · January 21, 2009, 03:48:25 PM

Hi All

I went on the Grain-it site and looked at the video. He made it look simple and that is what I am leaning towards in getting. Any tips on how best to prepare the nolding? Sand blasting, wire wheel? Is there a prep that I should put down before I use the Grain-it kit? Thanks for the pictures. Carmen

33plycoupe · January 20, 2009, 09:09:35 PM

I too wanted to woodgrain the dash and garnish pieces of my 33 PD coupe. First, I purchased an original copy of the book "Woodgraining *a new approach* by Bob Dunham on the internet. In it, they discuss the use of rubber based inks. I found, after locating some ink from a friiend retired from the printing business and practicing, it was simply too difficult. I then purchased the kit from Grain-It Technologies. I first had the garnish pieces lightly bead blasted and powder coat primered. Then I applied the base coat purchased and recommended by Grain-It. Next I applied the woodgrain from the template. After a lot of brush touching up, I applied six coats of clear coat sanding between each application. I was very pleased with my first attempt at woodgraining. Evidently, Grain-It has a newer kit that is supposed to produce even better results. Attached is a pic of my dash.

mvair · January 20, 2009, 03:08:03 PM

Unlike the last pictures, my dash had very little paint left and quite a bit of rust. Therefore, my only option was to paint or re-grain. Realizing that wood graining is an art and skill that can take a long time to develop, I decided to hire mine done.

I discovered there are two types of wood graining. They are sometimes called "artistic" and "print transfer". The artistic type is done by applying a base coat of paint followed by any combination of artist oil paints.? The grain pattern is achieved by dragging combs, brushes, rags, etc. through the colored paint to achieve the desired look. Finally a clear coat is applied to protect the grain pattern.

The "print transfer" type of wood grain is actually done by transferring the wood grain pattern from a template to the surface? of the object (with a soft roller) using the desired ink colors. The wood grain effect is then clear coated. This is the way it was originally done in the factory. Based on my research none of the original grain templates are still available. However, the technique was also used on NCR cash registers and those templates still exist.

I don't have my notes, so I can't give you names right now. Several years ago a man purchased the templates that were used by NCR. He split those templates with another fellow. Those are the templates that are used in virtually all "factory original" wood graining available today. The original man passed away a few years ago and his wife sold his half of the templates to another person who still advertises and does wood graining. The other half of the templates are owned by the person who started Grain-It Technologies in Florida. Grain-It reproduced the original templates (apparently in smaller versions) and sells them as graining kits. I believe all the ads in Hemmings that advertise "factory original" wood graining uses kits purchased from Grain-It. Grain-It also does wood graining (using the larger original templates) but charges more than others who use the kits. My understanding is that the larger templates are the same, except with a larger surface area the grain pattern repeats less often.

Attached is a picture of the dash from my '41 restoration. The graining was done by Grain-It. I also had all of the other trim pieces done at the same time. Because of modern materials, the finish is probably a little glossier than the originals, but it will undoubtedly last longer too.

If anyone else has other information, please add it. I talked to all of the people I referenced in this post and believe I have gotten the story straight.

Carmen · January 20, 2009, 11:18:07 AM

Buddy

WOW. I guess like everything else you can't be scared to try it. They look great.

Thanks

Carmen

Buddy Romines · January 19, 2009, 08:39:56 PM

Door trim

Buddy Romines · January 19, 2009, 08:38:33 PM

After Pictures

Buddy Romines · January 19, 2009, 08:36:38 PM

I mulled over replacing the paint on my dashboard for several months and just decided it was too cost prohibitive.? I cleaned up the dash and the windshield/rear window trim with several different cleaners and clear coated them.? I then painted the door and side window trim a deep chocolatte.? I think it turned out great and the cost was less tha $50.? I've posted some before and after pictures.

Bob · January 19, 2009, 04:32:54 PM

Carmen.

If you do some searching, woodgraining has been mentioned on this site before, but it has been awhile

Carmen · January 19, 2009, 03:29:04 PM

Hi All

I have been working on my 41 P12 and doing a "Rolling Restoration" I would like to the woodgraining all around. Any suggestion as to who's kit I should buy? If you can post some pictures that would be helpful in showing me what kind od results I can expect.

Thank You

Carmen