starting help

Started by 35PJ, June 08, 2019, 02:49:34 PM

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35PJ

great tip.

at this point I'm just hoping to drive the car to some shows for a year or two until I get the restoration done on my 1964 Tbird. then its this ones turn for a proper fix up.
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TodFitch

One thing I regret is not setting up a test stand and running the engine before installing in the car. I have lived with oil leaks that would have been relatively easy to fix before installing in the car but difficult or impossible to fix once the car was reassembled.
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35PJ

update three years later? lol

as for many life for the last couple years has been intense.

anyway had the problem resolved. turned out to be distributor related. excess play in the can on the dizzy was causing it to misfire at higher rpms and under load. swapped out the points and condenser for an electronic sensor. and it was like night and day/

got a few nice short cruses. for that summer but sadly rear seal on the motor was toast and ruined the clutch in short order.

last couple years ahs involved a move and new shop build. so finally getting back to it. motor was pulled cleaned up and getting reassembled. was hoping to have it running again by june but looking to be behind schedule. as seems to be the norm.
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36splodge

My experience with the fuel in the carb issue is that it  likely needs an over haul. The accelerator pump in the carb should give a shot of spray down the carb throat when you give a  pull on the accelerator linkage. If it is dripping or just pouring that will be your problem.
Have owned 3 Plymouths, the first 2 were just cars.....
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Robert5

Hoping it's the fuel pump.  :)
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35PJ

got the carb back together and no improvement. talked to a guy with some experience with flathead 6's on the industrial side and he said sounded like a timing issue and that it should run okay without the vacuum advance.

don't have a manual and seems to be conflicting ideas on the web regarding clocking the distributor and setting initial timing. most say #1 TDC should put the rotor at about 7 oclock. mine was more at 10.

so pulled the distributor right out. found a broken pin that retains one of the mechanical advance weights. I made a new pin and re-peened it in place. reassembled and reclocked the shaft on the distributor with the mechanical advance.

re set everything, re timed it. and it fired right up had great power, better than it has, so went out for a rip got 3 blocks away and started to sputter and pop again. then stalled right out and wouldn't restart.

pushed it back home checked everything it all looked good. tried it and it fired up again seemed good. for a bit then sputtered and stalled again. turns out now it will run for a bit then it looses all fuel pressure.

looks like either a partial clog somewhere or the cheap electric fuel pump I put in is buggered.

so pulled the tank today, defiantly has some crud in it but the filter I put on before the pump was all clean. so waiting for a new pump.
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Robert5

Good luck. Let us know how you make out and if that eliminates the issue?
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35PJ

just regular from the pump fuel. fuel pressure seems to stay okay.


I pulled the carb last night and gonna give it a full clean. then I pulled the vacuum advance off the distributer. and sure enough the diaphragm is shot. crossing my fingers I can locate one today otherwise the local car show tomorrow is a no go
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Robert5

Do you think it's vapor locking?
How long does it take to start failing?
What kind of fuel are you running in it?
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35PJ

so scratching my head on this.

starts beautifully. idles pretty good.

take it for a drive and starts out okay and then starts to fail under load, pops, bangs, sputters. no power but idles good. the more you drive it the worse it gets till to cools a bit then will be better.

I was getting moisture around the carb, I assumed a small gas leak but maybe a vaccume leak?

I cant find timing marks anywhere but seems best advanced as far as it will go. if I turn the distributer back even a 1/8 inch on the bolt and the idle gets rough.

any ideas of other things to check?
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35PJ

summer has been insane.

biggest problem ended up being fuel pump.

stuck on a electric one to test and she fired up second crank. now i'm having issues with stalling under load. wil start out okay, but then starts to pop and backfire when I try and get higher rpms. but only when driving. thinking either the advance isn't working or carb issues.
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GWR

Whatever happened? Did you find out what it was? When I read this I thought of the condenser.
GWR 30U Business Coupe
        67 Fury III 4drHT w/383
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Gary Vickery

Good to hear of another PJ out there!  Just wanted to mention that if you were talking about fuel pressure at the carb, you won't be getting 50 or 60 psi.  I can't recall for sure, but I think you should have more like 3.5 to 5 psi.  Would love to see a pic of your car.
49 Plymouth (long ago)
35 Plymouth PJ Deluxe
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35PJ

thanks ill try the propane trick. I did get eh seals moving compression is a little low in some cylinders so the hop was they would seat once I got it running. as you said.

I was using starting fluid and did manage with some timing tweeks to get it to bark and stumble along on the starting fluid. I think it might be a fuel pump issue I have read that I should see 50 to 60 psi at and not getting anywhere near that. fuel is going in but not in a way that I believe would promote a good air fuel mix.

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POC-Admin

Have you checked the compression? If the valves were stuck the rings may be stuck also. Try putting some penetrating oil in each spark plug hole and with the plugs out - turn it over a few times. Let it stand for a day or so and put the plugs back in and try again. Once it starts hopefully the rings will seat and get compression back.

I have also started hard to start engines with a propane torch - without lighting the torch have someone stick it in the intake side of the carburetor while you try starting - safer than using starting fluid. When it starts to catch pump the gas pedal a bit and keep the propane coming till it smooths out.
Live long and prosper!
My real name is Mark Olson
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35PJ

working away at my recently acquired 1935 Pj 2 door sedan business

was a non runner when I started, previous owner said all it needed to run was the wire from the coil to the distributer.

so far I have fixed the firing order and timing that was out of wack, replaced the plug wires, cap, rotor and points. discovered that the valves were all stuck, so then removed the hear and pulled ll the valves to clean and re seat them.
ended up breaking the stock exhaust manifold so put on a set of reds headers.


still no start, I have spark (weak but its still 6 volt so to be expected) I have fuel timing seems to be where it should be it will crank and pop as some of the cylinders start to fire but will not catch and run.


out of frustration I grabbed a cheap 12 volt coil from the local shop and disconnected all the wiring from the motor and connected a 12 volt battery. its SOOOO close and trying to start but just wont catch.

am i missing sometihng stupid? ive heard these old girls can be hard to get running but cant be this bad, only thing im thinking is fuel? carb is working you can see fuel go into the carb when I flip the butterfly though it just seems to pour in and collects in the bottom of the intake. is this normal? newer carbs definatly do a bette job of atomizing the fuel. could this be why it wont start?
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