ok dumb question number one as im doin the timming chain this weekend can somebody tell me as im lookin into the valve inspection cover .. on number one pot which is the inlet? left or right? when timming i noticed this all seemed to be out as one was still fully open when the other one was opening i asumed the inlet was the left one but this is why im doin the chain I think it may have jumped at some point hence my problem gettin the evil thing started!! thanks for lookin any help is good help
virge
Do you have the manifolds on? If so seeing which is the inlet is easy as it is the one going to the intake manifold.
For the #1 cylinder, the forward most valve is exhaust, the rear valve is intake.
The intake valve chambers are "siamized", so the forward valve on the #2 cylinder is intake and rear valve is exhaust.
Valve sequence (from the front of the engine) is E I I E E I I E E I I E. This is the valve sequence for virtually all inline engines, no matter who made them and no matter the number of cylinders - 4, 6 or 8. Just look at how your manifolds attach to the block, and you can figure it out. If you happen to have the head off, then intake valves are always larger in diameter than exhaust. This because there is only reduced atmospheric pressure pushing the mixture into the cylinder, but the force of expanding gas plus the rising piston pushing it out. Valves should be adjusted with the engine at operating temperature, but I like to increase the factory settings of 0.008" intake and 0.010" exhaust to a tight 0.010" and 0.012". This results in effective 9 and 11 thou clearances - just a little more than the factory - so you get the peace of mind of knowing no valve is likely to be held open when the engine is working hard. At the same time, the "clicks" of too great clearance are avoided.
thanks for the info i was lookin at the right one but nice to have it confirmed! thanks again
virge. ::)
Quote from: 12905 on March 30, 2007, 05:56:19 PM
Valve sequence (from the front of the engine) is E I I E E I I E E I I E. This is the valve sequence for virtually all inline engines, no matter who made them and no matter the number of cylinders - 4, 6 or 8. Just look at how your manifolds attach to the block, and you can figure it out. If you happen to have the head off, then intake valves are always larger in diameter than exhaust. This because there is only reduced atmospheric pressure pushing the mixture into the cylinder, but the force of expanding gas plus the rising piston pushing it out. Valves should be adjusted with the engine at operating temperature, but I like to increase the factory settings of 0.008" intake and 0.010" exhaust to a tight 0.010" and 0.012". This results in effective 9 and 11 thou clearances - just a little more than the factory - so you get the peace of mind of knowing no valve is likely to be held open when the engine is working hard. At the same time, the "clicks" of too great clearance are avoided.
My engine just came out of overhaul so I can't set the valves hot since I have not run it yet. What clearance can I set the valves to cold? My car is a '37. It appears the overhaul shop set them at .012".
My owners manual says 6 degrees for intake and 8 degrees for exhaust hot. The service manual says the same but makes no mention of hot or cold. I thought when and engine heats up the clearance should be near zero and return to 6 and 8 degrees when cold. Are there any sites that handles this sort of thing. The first decade site does not. I can't find firing order anyway but think I have it figured out.
James
Firing order on all Plymouth sixes is 153624. Same as most inline sixes . I do recall a Buick six (1929) that was 142635. When I was about five years old, I pulled the wires off that one. It took my dad a long time to get it to run again. Some "lessons" are never forgotten.
Quoteas im doin the timming chain this weekend
I may be missing something, but if you are installing your timing chain, the key is to have to dots aligned on the crank gear and the cam gear. If those are correct, then the valve timing is correct.
Are you dealing with two different thoughts here? ???? Your are talking valve timing and valve lash? Two different measurements.? One is set by properly indexing the camshaft and crankshaft by assuring the marks on the gears are alligned with number one piston at TDC on compression stroke, and the other deals with how much the lifters move before they begin to open the valves.? Cold valve settings are listed in the manual and are given in thousanths of an inch, measured by a feeler gauge inserted between the lifter and the valve.? Loose is better than tight.
The valve opening timing is non adjustable and the spec is given to assure correct istallation of the gears and chain, and is a measure of degrees of rotation away from top dead center of the given stroke. Also remember cam degrees are half of crank degrees.