I have everything working after completing a total new wiring job except the horns. All fuses are OK. Can someone tell me how to check the wiring to the horns, relay, and horns themselves for proper function?
Thanks for advance.
Don
If it is anything like a P15, there is a horn relay. The relay has 4 terminals. Two terminals are to engergize the coil inside the relay. One is connected to the negatize side of the coil to get power, via a green wire. The other also has a green wire, that runs up thru the hollow steering shaft to the horn button. Pressing the horn button grounds the wire, completing the circuit and energizing the coil inside the horn relay. The energized coil closes a set of points, connecting the other two terminal together. One of those terminals picks up power from the negative battery cable at the starter solenoid. The other one goes to the horns, via a (go figure) green wire. ???
So check the routing of the wires. If they are OK, get out your test light or volt meter and check each point along the circuits to isolate the fault.
I hope this helps, Joel
My 1941 horn relay has three terminals. One in the center is the hot wire (b), the left one goes to the horns (h). And the left one goes to the horn button, which of course completes the circuit to ground.My question is: is there supposed to be an insulator of some sort between the spring and the blowing ring contact plate? When I put the assembly together, the horn blows all the time. Or maybe because on the very top of the horn cable, on my car, there is solder. I wonder if what my drawing refers to as cable contacts,are supposed to be separated instead of soldered together?
W.C.,
In the P-15 thru P-23 manual, it states:
"Horns blow continuously" -(horn button not sticking)-
1. Wiring - Inspect wiring for ground between horn button and relay. Remove
cable from relay ground terminal. If horn stops blowing, ground is either in
column cable or horn button.
2. Horn relay - If the above test fails to correct trouble, replace the horn relay.
Looking at the "exploded views" of several types of horn buttons, I cannot
determine if there is some typw insulator between the button spring and the
wheel nut (not to be confused with the nut behind the wheel!!!). But, if there
has to be a ground "made up" when the button is pushed, I would suspect a
bad insulator in there. I would think that there would have to be one between the
horn button and the wheel nut.
Don,
Sorry for this - I hate to imply the obvious - but on my P-23, the ignition
switch has to be in the ON position before the horn will blow. Is this the
case with your '40?
The P-15 thru P-23 manual states:
Turn the ignition switch ON. Connect a jumper from the battery (-)
terminal to the horn terminal at the horn. If the horn does not blow,
the horn unit is at fault.
Bill:
Interesting about your manual. If you want the horn to be operative with the switch off, you can run the horn wire to the "hot" side of the ignition switch. That's how my wiring diagram shows the hook-up. In my case the horn relay was bad.
Thanks
Don