Hello all, going to be trailering my "new" '40 convertible for the first time shortly, and was looking for advise on best tie-down points. I have quite a bit of experiance trailering rigs, but only Jeeps, and its easy to tie down a 4x4 w/ double axles.
Any advise greatly appreciated, thanks!!
use 5/16 or 3/8 chain to chain the vehicle to the front of the trailer. put the chain around an axle or something solid in two places. then use 3 or 4inch wide ratchet nylon to tension the vehicle at two points to the back of the trailer. Hook or wrap the straps around the axle-watch out for the brake lines. attach all to the axle or running gear- something solid--avoid the body as it is sprung and will move more. avoid those rachets that loop over a tire-they tend to slide around or off. Put the car cover in the trunk as it will flap around and ruin the paint. Chain with hooks and bolts thru the chain in the front will keep the vehicle from moving backwards, and the tension in the rear keeps everyuthing tight.
Always chain on all four corners - don't just loop a chain or strap from left side to right. Problem isn't really holding the car in place under normal tow conditions - its if you get in an accident and come to a sudden stop. The weight of that car on the back will increase tremendously and you want all the holding power you can get. You don't want the car to come through the back of the tow vehicle. Check the tiedowns, chains, straps, often.
Thanks for the advise, but I'm more interested in particular tie down points on this particular car. Lots of experiance towing jeeps as I mentioned, just use crossed 10,000# rachet straps and secure them to the axles. Two crossed in front, and two crossed in rear., Was mostly curious about attachment of straps to front of this car. Can I attach to the control arms? Rather not attach to the frame.
Thanks anyway :-)
There is a great spot on the crossmember under the engine for the front tiedown. All you have to do is to slip your hook into the crossmember and then to the floor tiedown. Rear - wrap around the axle.
Was afraid to wrap the rear axle, as not sure of its strength, so looped over the frame right where the X-frame pieces join it, and in the front over the frame behind the cross-member. Worked fine, but had fraying issues at one point with the front straps where they crossed under the cross member, so wrapped the straps with fire-hose cloth, and had no further issues. Sure tows better than the jeep, 1,000 lbs. lighter, and much more aerodynamic. Managed better than 15mpg towing from NY to VA.
Thanks for the advise!!
Which route did you take on the way back to Virginia?
Bob
From Rochester 390/86 to Corning, and then Rte. 15 pretty much all the way (except for a small detour around Harrisburg) to 270 in Md. which runs into the capitol beltway, which takes me on around into Va.
On this trailering topic, does anyone know what the legal issues are? For instance, weight limit on the tow vehicle's license plate, necessity to stop at weigh stations, etc...
I believe some of you on this forum have law enforcement careers. My gross trailer weight will be slightly greater than 10,000lbs. Does this trigger any special requirements?
Doran
Having to stop at weigh/inspection stations varies from state to state. Some states have signs reading "all trucks over 10,000 gross..." etc. Others say "all trucks & busses.." For the most part, if its not a commercial move (doing it for hire) you are probably exempt as its considered "recreational". When in doubt, its best to check in -you might get a "what the h... are you doing here with that?" - but its better than seeing those blinking lights in your mirrors and having the nice man hand you a piece of paper with an invitation to visit the judge....
The recent question on this topic that was posed by Doran was directed mainly to law enforcement questions and I think Jim B's response was spot on. I have a few comments from an experience point of view. I have pulled a 25' enclosed trailer through out most of the western States for over ten years, encountering many different state laws with with no problems because I pay attention the signs when approaching weight stations.
The big problem with trailering that gets most people in trouble, be it a RV or a car hauler is usually the tow vehicle. The quality of the trailer is important, however, the proper tow vehicle is more important. Through the years I have seen far to many people buy a vehicle based on cost in lieu of capacity. Generally speaking the average SUV/pickup is not suitable for towing a trailer/car combo. The ability of any given vehicle to tow/carry a load has nothing to do with the licensing fees the state charges, it is more what the vehicle was designed to carry by the manufacture.
An example of this can be found in the average 'modern' 3/4 ton pickup. I use the term 'modern' because prior to the 1980's a 3/4 ton pickup was a heavy duty unit. As people started to purchase SUV/pickups for daily transportation the manufactures lightened the suspension because people complained about the rough ride. If you are buying a truck with the carrying capacity equal to a '65 3/4 ton (C-20/F250) you have to purchase a F-350 or a 3500.
Trailer load capacity is also very important. My trailer is rated at 10,000 GVW, it has eight lug wheels and brakes on both axles. When I load it I make sure that the load is pretty well centered over the wheels, slightly to the front for proper tongue weight. Probably nothing will get you in trouble with the local law enforcement faster than a tow vehicle with the rear bumper nearly dragging the ground and the trailer not sitting squarely on the axles....Bill
Thanks Bill, I appreciate your reply to my post. You make several good points that are of value to me and probably others. Yes, I did kind of call on the law enforcement guys, but I'm looking for information from all sources. Many forum members will have had experiences towing that I have not had, and I will learn by reading about them. It is NOT my intention to limit replies to only those from law enforcement folks.
Doran