Looking for a working temp gauge for 1937PT50 Woodie.
Yep, they are available on ebay from $250-$400. These are out of my price range.
Gauge doesn't have to show perfect just in working order.
Thanks for your time.
My email reply to your questions bounced with the message "mailbox unavailable". So here it is (your email questions in bold, my response in plain text:
Asking the expert for info 1937 Plymouth PT50 Woodie
Looking for a part number of the AMP fuse?
The only parts book that I have that mentions the fuses is in the 1936-48 Plymouth parts book. I have photographed the chart and am attaching that.
I strongly believe these are the BUSS style (glass tube) fuses that were commonly used on many applications including cars into the 1960s. I am not sure if the typical automotive fuse was fast acting or delayed. I suspect delayed. Here are links to a possible source of each type:
Fast Acting: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/bussmann-type-fuses/fast-acting-glass-tube-fuses/
Time Delay: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/bussmann-type-fuses/time-delay-glass-tube-fuses/
I don't know which one(s) your PT50 used. On my 1933 Plymouth there is a single 20 amp 1/4" x 1 1/4" fuse on the back of the ammeter. From the chart I have attached that would be Chrysler part 830823 for the package or part 106653 for the single fuse. With higher power headlights than mine, you might have a 30 amp fuse but it is probably the same 1/4" x 1 1/4" physical size.
Where can I find the above AMP fuse?
These used to be available in any hardware store and/or auto supply store. It has been so long since I bought my last set of replacements that I can't remember where I got them. My guess is a hardware store would be more likely nowadays than an auto supply. If your local stores don't have them, the they should be available on line.
Wiring up the AMP gauge, shouldn't be hard but I am stuck on which two wires where to connect to. Diagrams shows hot wire from starter 2nd wire to battery?
I don't have a wiring diagram for you car. But typically the lead from the battery came from the starter switch to one terminal on the ammeter. The other terminal of the ammeter has the fuse. If I recall correctly, all the lighting loads in the car and the horn went through the fuse. I believe the lead from the generator connected directly to the other post on the ammeter.
Finding a temp gauge 665098 that doesn't cost $200?
I suspect that a professional repair or a new-old stock (NOS) gauge would fetch at least $200.
I have my original gauge but the tube is broken off, I have both ends which includes the bulb. I see these are repairable, cheaper than $200?
I believe I answered you on this on one of the antique car forums. I grafted the bulb and capillary tube from a cheap "mechanical" temperature gauge onto the dash unit. My write up of the procedure is at https://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge The last time I did it for someone else they were able to buy a suitable gauge from their local auto supply for less than $20. But that was a while ago and it would not surprise me if the cost is higher now. I did my own back in the mid-1990s and the graft is still holding in there and my gauge still reads correctly.
Again, any help would be very much appreciated.
Dang, you are then Man.
Thanks for all your help, i keep thinking about fixing the temp gauge but not sure if i can find a copper sleeve that small. Temp gauge is not a must have right now, car is drive-able and if it overheats, just pull over and let it cool.
Cheers
Zak