Hello, I have purchased a 1952 Cranbrook. I got it running with a new battery, points and fuel pump. The master cylinder was empty so I ordered a new fuel pump. The car is about 50 miles from my house and I plan on repairing the brakes and driving it home. Do I need to take any special tools with me to replace the master cylinder? I did find the master cylinder under the floorboard and I assume part of the floor pan needs to come out. Thank you in advance for any advice anyone can give me. David Snyder, 813 310-2405
Hallo,
I did not work on brakes, but maybe these scans help.
You should look for a Car Pars Book and for a Service Manual.
You will always need both!
Greetings from düsseldorf!
Go
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It has been quite some time, like over twenty-five years since I replaced a master cylinder on any kind of a vehicle. For the most part master cylinders are all the same, however, I seem to recall that dual master cylinders have some anomaly's. Of course your '52 does not have a dual cylinder so you won't have to deal with that issue.
Common hand tools will work very well, with the exception of the flare nuts that secure the brake lines. I would suggest that you purchase a set of hex head open end flare head wrenches. This type of end wrench will fit over the line tubing then fit the hex head very nicely without rounds the shoulders off.
As I recall you should fill the master cylinder with fluid, then slowly work the plunger with a dowel to get fluid into the piston area. Once you have expelled some fluid from the opening that the line attaches to the cylinder is ready to install.
You will have to bleed all of the wheel cylinders to purge them of air. takes to people to do this.
It is normal to attach a small hose to the bleeder valve, putting the hose into a pop bottle to capture the expelled fluid/air. Once the peddle hits the floor, close the bleeder valve.. Repeat at each wheel until the peddle is at full peddle.
The peddle should have a little free travel before the rod hits the cylinder piston, adjust rod accordingly.
Of course most shops now have power bleeders which only require one man. Wm.
I just replaced complete brake system on my 49. The master cylinder is held on by two bolts. I don't recall the size. You also have to remove a c clip from the shaft that holds the brake pedal to the master cylinder. The two brake lines attach to the rear of the master cylinder. I think one of mine twisted off which then I had to replace the line. One line goes to the front of the car and the other goes to the rear. You will need a breaker bar and open end wrenches. Sockets . Just take your whole tool box. In 49 I have two wheel cylinders on each front wheel and one wheel cylinder on the rear wheels. I don't know about your year. I do know I had to get a hub puller to get the rear drums to come loose from the lip of the back axle.
Hello, I have a 1952 Plymouth Convertible and I need a top motor. It still has the electrical mechanical top mechanism with the screw jacks instead of the hydraulic cylinders. Does anyone know where I might be able to get the top motor? Thanks, in advance. David Snyder
well, I´m not hopeful with fuindeig a new mtop motor for machanically driven tops!
I´m lookihg for one since 5 + years with no success.
As the motor is barely able to close the roof now, this his week I´ll take it out and look for an industry standart substitute
and compare it. Maybe I take a 12V motor as having 6 and 12 V on board.
For sure, the drive cables will have to be custom- adapted to the shaft!
Greetings from Düsseldorf!
Go