I need to check the rear brakes on my 35 PJ (I don't think they are doing anything, other than maybe hanging up). I researched on this forum, which is a huge help to me by the way, and see a lot about the difficulties in removing the rear hubs. If they are that hard to remove, how hard are they to put back on? I plan to order a hub puller for the removal. Is there something about putting them back on that I should know before I remove them?
Putting on is pretty easy, other than they are supposed to be torqued to a minimum of 142 ft-lbs. I weigh about 200 lbs and my breaker bar is about 18" so I figure if I put all my body weight on the bar I am torquing it enough.
And don't forget the cotter pin!
Thanks Todd. Should the front hubs be torgued on that tight as well? And do you use any kind of anti-sieze grease when you put the hubs on?
Quote from: napmaster on October 22, 2017, 11:06:26 PM
Thanks Todd. Should the front hubs be torgued on that tight as well? And do you use any kind of anti-sieze grease when you put the hubs on?
The taper on the rear axle shaft should be dry and clean. It works like the tapered tool holders on metal working tools. That said lots of people put some anti-sieze on it as they don't want to have troubles removing the drum/hub in the future. My understanding is that puts more loads on the square key when they do that. My personal experience is that once you get the drums off once, the next time is not too bad. At least if the next time is not in another few decades.
The front axle is totally different. The way I was taught to do those was to spin the wheel/hub while tightening the hub nut until it seats/starts to bind a little, then back off the the first cotter pin hole. The way the 1936-42 factory service manual says it is:
QuoteTurn bearing nut tight. Turn nut back two slots, then to nearest cotter pin slot. Insert new cotter pin and bend ends of pin back to prevent interference with grease cap.