Plymouth Owners Club

I am a new member and do not have a Plymouth car at this time.  I really like the 1934 2dr sedans, but what I have able to glean from different sites because of the updated cooling 1935 or newer would be a better choice. I plan to keep mostly stock but I want a drive. Any thoughts.

Contact Tom Poulter he will help you, plus  he can give you a name of man that I think lives in Kentucky that has a beautiful '34 or '35 Plymouth that he did.  At the moment his name escapes my old soon to be 69 year old brain  LOL

Another source, or opinion may be the P.O.C. Advisor for the 1934 production year.
He is Dennis Williams, in Ohio. I have his email as 

Quote from: RC Drown on May 25, 2017, 10:44:33 PM
Contact Tom Poulter he will help you, plus  he can give you a name of man that I think lives in Kentucky that has a beautiful '34 or '35 Plymouth that he did.  At the moment his name escapes my old soon to be 69 year old brain  LOL

Thanks for the intro. Bob, We B Old not quite sure what you want us to say, the 1934 PE is the most desirable of the 34 cars IMO but of course we have the PF and PG as well. Think you will be very lucky to find a 34 with it's original engine, I have a PD with a PF engine  and a PE under total restoration which will finish up with a rebuilt PG driveline. One of the moderators here Jim Benjaminson has over the years written several articles for Allpar.com no body knows more on the subject, also Tod Fitch post here regularly and has a fantastic data base on the first decade, he has a 33 PD 2 Door Sedan which he carried out a ground up restoration.

Can you give some idea of what your location is and how many miles /yr you would be thinking of, the overheating problems on the early engines might not be a problem, there may also be an owner close to you that you can get a better feel for the model of your choice.

May I suggest that you complete the details in you profile so that we can get to know you better.

My profile is complete. At this time I don't have a car. I am trying to convince myself I need to. I already have 2 old vehicles, a 1960 MGA that I have had since Dec 1968, bought 3 days after getting back from Viet Nam, and a 1954 Chevy pickup that I bought in 1983 and is modified as far as the running gears. I started looking somewhere around 1986 for a car but getting my son through college and a masters degree diverted my finances.  Now back to engine choice. I love the look of the 34s, the gangster, reversed hinged doors. But when I read on allpar the upgrade to the engine in 1935 I changed direction. To explain, The car most be a driver, not daily but distant. I just got back from 1700 mile round trip to the east coast in my 1954 truck. I also go to KC, MO. once a year. 

Been a while since I checked in here (on travel with only a cellphone).

I don't have direct experience with a '34 with respect to cooling, but my '33 shares basically the same block the main difference being they stroked the engine in '34 to increase the displacement to 201 cu. in. The only time I've had overheating issues on my '33 was when the radiator was clogged. That includes some driving in the southwestern deserts with ambient temperatures around 100?F.

The only heat related issue my car has is related to fuel delivery: On a hot day when the engine is fully warmed up it will start fine but once the fuel in the carburetor bowl is used up will stall. Cure, at least on my car, is to cool the fuel pump down.

I installed the fuel pump heat shield that later became standard but it is not as effective as I'd hoped. Never had this issue back before most cars got fuel injection and they stopped worrying as much about fuel volatility. Turns out I have better luck with California gas than with Arizona gas (apparently California has stricter volatility standards than the rest of the nation).

Quote from: TodFitch on May 29, 2017, 04:24:54 PM
Been a while since I checked in here (on travel with only a cellphone).

I don't have direct experience with a '34 with respect to cooling, but my '33 shares basically the same block the main difference being they stroked the engine in '34 to increase the displacement to 201 cu. in. The only time I've had overheating issues on my '33 was when the radiator was clogged. That includes some driving in the southwestern deserts with ambient temperatures around 100?F.

The only heat related issue my car has is related to fuel delivery: On a hot day when the engine is fully warmed up it will start fine but once the fuel in the carburetor bowl is used up will stall. Cure, at least on my car, is to cool the fuel pump down.

I installed the fuel pump heat shield that later became standard but it is not as effective as I'd hoped. Never had this issue back before most cars got fuel injection and they stopped worrying as much about fuel volatility. Turns out I have better luck with California gas than with Arizona gas (apparently California has stricter volatility standards than the rest of the nation).

I recently had a very unusual thing happen with my '39 Plym. (modern V8 engine that is carburated} The engine starts right up when cold, when it is warmed up it will crank and crank, not firing a shot. Let the engine cool down, it will start right up. The engine recently would not start, had to have the car towed to the tuneup shop, the electronic module had died for the third time in three years. The problem turned out to be a module from China, I told the tune up man, Bill, a guy I have used for years, that the module was supposed to be a GM unit, wrong, it was not. I was told to go to the Chevy dealer and pick up a GM module that was USA made. I made mention about the hard starting of the engine when the engine was warmed up. Bill took one look at the engine and told me the problem was a lack of a spacer block under the carb, between the carb and the intake. Modern engines have not used a spacer block under the carb since the late'70's. Engines in the late 50's and on generally had spacer blocks.
I went to the hot rod shop and picked up a 3/8" spacer block for an AFB carb, Bill put it on the engine, the engine now starts on the first crank of the starter. Bill told me the problem was heat boiling the fuel, causing it to evaporate before it got to the engine. Hmmm, high tech now goes low tech to solve a problem.
I had also been having a problem with the trans shifting late (700R4) which the my transmission man had not been able to correct. The added 3/8" under the carb re-positioned the carb which changed the angle of the trans shift cable, late hard shift problem solved, all for less than $15.00..