I have a 33 coupe that seems to have a problem with the synchronizers in the transmission. Can someone give me a lead on where I might find a rebuilt trans that will work in the car? Thanks
Could the problem be that the '33 doesn't have synchronizers? :)
First use of synchros on Plymouth was '35. The '33 does have constant mesh gears with sliding dog clutches but there are no synchros to keep things from crunching when you shift.
Have some fun and learn to "double clutch".
Well, double clutching doesn't seem to get the job done. It is practically impossible to get the trans into first gear without the gears clashing. The shifts to 2nd and 3rd, even double clutching, chirps them also.
What weight gear lube do you have in it? Manual calls for 110w "Free wheeling lubricant". The heavier the gear lube the easier it is to match up gear speeds while double clutching. At least that is my experience. 90w does not cut it for me. I've used 140w hypoid gear lube in mine for decades with no apparent problem. Use the same 140w hypoid gear lube in the rear axle too.
Some other brands used bronze/brass bushings in their transmissions of that era and later Mopar ones used bronze in the synchs, or so I've heard, so you might want to read up on hypoid lubricants before you use one in other cars. But near as I can tell from the parts book and from when I tore everything apart there are no "white metal" parts in either the transmission or rear axle of the '33 Plymouth.
Also, is you clutch adjusted properly? If it is not fully disengaging then you'll have the same symptoms you describe.
I've got 80-90 in it now and was told by some old car guys that the addition STP of would slow down the gear rotation for smoother shifting. I don't notice any real difference, so I think I will drain the trans again and try 140.
The clutch adjustment is right up to specs and is operating properly. Thanks for the info....
One more point on shifting: Torque on the L-6 engine is produced at pretty low RPM and "back in the day" before automatic transmissions and synchros they attempted to make shifting as non-existent as they could. They did this by trying to make it so you could be in high gear from somewhere between 10 and 15 MPH and up.
So in "normal driving" you will want to be in high gear by 15 or so MPH. So if you run it up to 20 in 1st before shifting to 2nd there is almost no way you'll do it without crunching the gears. Unless I'm trying to impress someone, I am out of 1st just after I get any forward motion and out of second into third almost as quickly (time wise, not speed wise).
Downshifting is a whole 'nother thing. :) I hate it when the light turns green just before I've come to a stop. Really hard to get it into 1st while rolling at all without some noise.
Thanks for this last post. I thought that all of these characteristics were just happening to me. All of them are very typical of my car. I'm going to change the trans fluid next and call it good. BTW I thought that the downshifting thing was unique to my car. Thanks for the help, Tod.
just to add a note to the discussion, you should also be able to slow down and make turns at about 15 mph without downshifting especially if the car is tuned well. Saves a lot of work.
Brian '41 coupe