I started a thread a few months back about my Uncle's '32 that hasn't been on the road in 25 years or so. Mostly done, it's down to wiring.
The engine cranks but has no spark.
Below is how I have things hooked up, the most basic starting diagram, I *think*. I will figure out lights, charging etc. later, just trying to get it to run for now.
Positive ground on 6v battery
Negative cable (2 ga) goes to starter post
Wire from starter post to ammeter
Wire from other side of ammeter to key switch
Wire from key switch to negative side of coil
Positive side of coil to distributor
Plug wires, including coil to dist
I am not sure the ignition switch is original to the car, it is not in the original diagram I have. Uncle wants it in there though.
Seems like with that diagram it should fire.
Distributor is completely rebuilt by a professional. Starter just rebuilt by a professional too. Battery is new.
The battery died so it is charging again now. Not sure where the "fire" ends so to speak, I need to test that next once the battery is charged again.
Could the ammeter be "dead" inside somehow? Can I just bypass it for the moment to get it to run?
Thanks in advance!
Scott
A test light on the coil side of the switch will tell you if the ammeter and switch are okay. Same test light from the stud on the side of the distributor will tell you if current is getting through the coil and allow you to static time the engine.
So it looks like the problem is with my wiring of my switch.
The switch is a typical 4 post type. The back side is segmented 3 ways - acc/bat/ign. There is then a 4th post between the 3 others and set above them, it is labeled ST. I am going to google, but how is that supposed to be wired. I mimicked what my uncle did but I think it must be wrong.
Thanks
I am guessing the wire to the coil needs to be hooked up to the IGN post. Then the hot wire coming in needs to be hooked up to the BAT post?
I think ST would be for a starter relay and ACC is accessory?
Quote from: ScootM on January 07, 2013, 10:48:12 PM
I am guessing the wire to the coil needs to be hooked up to the IGN post. Then the hot wire coming in needs to be hooked up to the BAT post?
I think ST would be for a starter relay and ACC is accessory?
Sounds like a good assumption.
I have spark now. Pulled it behind my Tahoe since the battery is too weak to make it go. It ran, but really poorly.
You mention static timing, how is that done? I am guessing it may be way out of time.
Thanks
Quote from: ScootM on January 17, 2013, 02:36:33 PM
I have spark now. Pulled it behind my Tahoe since the battery is too weak to make it go. It ran, but really poorly.
You mention static timing, how is that done? I am guessing it may be way out of time.
Thanks
On the '33 you open a cover on the front of the bell housing to expose a timing pointer and then rotate the engine until it is at TDC. (Later cars put the mark on the front pulley, don't know where it is on a '32 but it should be somewhere and the "operator's manual" (a.k.a. owners manual) should tell where.)
Once the engine is at TDC, hook a test light between the low voltage coil wire and ground, rotate the distributor until the light just turns on (points open). Lock the distributor position clamp.
I found the small timing cover...
What is the cylinder configuration ie 1,2,3,4? 1 nearest the radiator? in a row from there headed towards the firewall? The only diagram I have shows them in a row, but doesn't state where 1 is.
How do I know the engine is on the compression stroke?
Sorry for the remedial questions!
Scott
Quote from: ScootM on February 10, 2013, 10:42:04 PM
I found the small timing cover...
What is the cylinder configuration ie 1,2,3,4? 1 nearest the radiator? in a row from there headed towards the firewall? The only diagram I have shows them in a row, but doesn't state where 1 is.
How do I know the engine is on the compression stroke?
Sorry for the remedial questions!
Scott
Number 1 is by the radiator. If you remove the spark plug you put a finger on the hole and feel the air escaping as it comes up on the compression stroke.
On my '33 it is a whole lot easier to line up with the timing mark using the hand crank if the spark plugs are all out. With them in you are fighting the compression and I have a tendency to overshoot.
Of course, having a finger on the #1 spark plug hole and hand cranking at the same time isn't really possible either. If the existing plug wiring is correct, you can see where the wire to the distributor from the #1 cylinder goes and then with the distributor cap off look for the rotor to be pointing in that direction. Otherwise maybe getting a helper to crank while you check compression on #1 would be a good idea. Though, honestly, when I've lost track of the position I've just time it to the mark. You will have a 50% chance of being on the correct cylinder and it will start and run. If you aren't lucky, it won't start and you may well have back firing through the carburetor. In the non-lucky case (I've been there) then you either swap all the leads on the distributor around or pop the distributor out and put it back in with the rotor rotated half way around (not sure that works on the 4 but it works on the later 6 cylinder engines that was as the distributor drive is just a tang and slot mechanism).