Want to change the oil in my transmission and rear end. Found the plugs for the transmission, but I just can't find the drain plug for the rear end. I found the fill plug - but how do I drain out the old oil ???? And how do you go about flushing out the transmission and rear end before you replace it with new oil ???
Thanks
Carmen
Check your manual. One of the bolts around the Diff housing may be the drain plug.
Trukey baster and tubing.... Or like on some you loosen the bolts on the acces plate then wiggle the plate loose, the lub will come out in a hurry so have a suitable container ready. the tighten the blts back up and refill. The turkey baster will help here also if clearence is tight around the fill/check hole.
John Hendricks has it: Remove a couple of the lower bolts that attach the pinion housing/casting to the rear axle housing. From the 1936-42 factory service manual:
QuoteDrain and refill the rear axle every 15,000 miles with the proper viscosity of Extreme Pressure Hypoid Gear Lubricant. The rear axle may be drained with a suction gun through the filler hole, or by removing two of the lower cap screws which hold the differential carrier in the housing and allowing it to drain. The capacity is 3 1/4 pints.
plym_46: When did they add an access plate? On my 1933 has its cover welded on and the 1936-48 parts book illustration indicates that that was also true through 1948.
Reproduction service manuals are available. But in this case I don't see the clear wording in the 1946-54 manual for draining the axle that I see in the 1936-42 manual. Still getting a service manual is a good idea.
Second question about flushing out before refilling: I have heard of people running kerosene in the transmission and rear end while the engine was idling and the rear wheel were jacked up off the ground. Personally I cringe at the thought of doing that.
I simply put in fresh lubricant of the appropriate type. Change it fairly frequently (after maybe 1000 miles instead of 15,000) and repeat until you are comfortable that you have enough of the old sludge out.
Kerosene/mineral spirits, it is what you need to use if you want to do the job right. First time I heard about it I cringed to, but it's the only way to clean it all out.
The manual for my '29 even suggests using a mixture of gear oil and spirits in the gearbox during winter months.
On pre war models, remove a couple of the lower bolts. Later models have a drain plug but it is flush with the case, not quite at the bottom of the main axle case. The square shaft of a door handle will serve as a key to get it out.
I did remove the two botton screws and put in fresh oil - boy it had been years since it was last changed. Anyway, I can see lots of problems with this. After a period of time those bolts will just keep working themselves loose and you could lose all your oil. Guess I will have to just keep a watchful eye on it.
Carmen
Quote from: Carmen on April 10, 2009, 05:22:48 PM
I did remove the two botton screws and put in fresh oil - boy it had been years since it was last changed. Anyway, I can see lots of problems with this. After a period of time those bolts will just keep working themselves loose and you could lose all your oil. Guess I will have to just keep a watchful eye on it.
Carmen
If I recall correctly, on my 1933's rear end there are split ring type lock washers on those bolts. And you are not supposed to reuse lock washers. So, with a new lock washer on each time the are replaced the bolts should not work themselves loose.
Now I will have to either crawl under the car and look or, more likely, peruse the parts book and verify my recollection on the lock washers.