I never expected this to be so difficult. Last fall, before putting my 1946 Plymouth into storage, I observed that my harmonic balancer was loose. I asked a few questions and was told that I probably needed a new or rebuilt unit and was given a recommendation on purchasing one. I ordered one this spring and last week I made arrangements to have them swapped out.
Last evening, the mechanic that I contracted with to do the replacement contacted me and told me that the harmonic balancer that I had was not correct and that he didn't know where to get one. I know some one that will rebuild a harmonic balancer. Rather than tie up my mechanic's service bay ($$$), I told him to put it back together with the worn unit until I can locate another. Does any one have a harmonic balancer for a 1946 Plymouth L6? It is easy to get one for a 230 that's what I got earlier figuring that all Chrysler L6 engines used the same harmonic balancer. I would like to work out some sort of mutually beneficial arrangement so that my baby can travel on her own steam without risk of the harmonic balancer flying apart
Maybe this is an easy thing to swap out, but I am not much of a mechanic. Regular oil changes, lubrication, and a few other intuitively obvious things are about the limits of my skills and experience. When talk of pressing on pulleys, pneumatic wrenches, welding, cutting torches, specialised tools, or assistants enter the conversation, I know that I am out of my depth. So please, if you have a harmonic balancer that will work with a 1946-48 Plymouth 218 L6 I would like to make an arrangement with you.
I think the first thing you need to do is properly identify the engine in your car. Engines are easy to change and what you have might be what you THINK you have. Look on the left front corner of the block, just above the generator but below the cylinder head line. You will see a flat spot with some letters & numbers stamped INTO the metal (not raised - stamped in). The first letter and numbers will indicate the model code of the engine. If its a P15 (1946-48) engine the code will start with P15. If its says (for example) P25, then you have a 1954 engine -- or it could be a Dodge car/truck engine, industrial or whatever. Industrial will start with IND - truck with a T prefix. Post the number and I will I.D. if for you if I can find a reference to it. Then you will know exactly what you have when it comes to ordering parts.....
Nothing stamped into the block. Smooth shiney metal where this number should be. I have a wide belt with pulleys to match.
A post-war factory replacement block....are there casting dates down by the starter?
My mechanic was familiar with old Fords and Chevies that used pressed on crank pulleys, and had never worked on a MoPar L6 before.? Upon further investigation, we realised that the balancer was fine.? The big ol' nut that holds that balancer on was missing.? How it came off or where?? I DON'T KNOW.? I have some suspicions, but since there is no way to prove anything and confrontation would involve a drive of over 10 hours one way I'll just leave it alone.? I'm just glad to finally have her inspected, titled, and tagged in Missouri, and home.? Already have a few big trips in the works just in the month of May.? Who knows what the rest of the summer has in store for my P15 and me?
Hi, Capt. Neon,
Since you mention that the balancer is loose, have your mechanic remove it, and inspect the 'key' (a short piece of 1/4" {if I remember correctly} square steel), which fits into 'keyways', that is, suitable cuts or grooves approx 1/8" deep in both the crankshaft and the damper hub, to provide a positive drive for the damper.
The key may have become worn or damaged. It is a very low-cost, readily available part, and should fit snugly.
The damper hub should fit tightly on the crankshaft, so tightly that a puller would be required to remove it. The puller would be used with two 3/8-16 thread bolts which would engage two tapped holes in the damper hub. The tapped holes might be filled with grime, and not easily noticed, but they are there, and should be cleaned with a suitable tap before use.
If the damper hub has worn to the extent that it is loose on the crankshaft, it should, at the least, be re-assembled with a new key and 'loctite', a special purpose assembly liquid which acts as the equivalent of an adhesive, to tighten a loose fit. Your mechanic will be familiar with 'red loctite', which is the suitable type.
Most, if not all, of the special nut part which secures the damper, will require a 1-13/16" socket wrench for tightening. This is not a common tool for modern cars, so your mechanic may have to purchase one from a supply house.
Have your mechanic carefully inspect the threads in the nose (front end) of the crankshaft. If the original part had worked loose, the threads may have become worn, so that using loctite on those threads when assembling with the replacement, presumably 'good used' part may be desirable.
cheers
Carla