When I bought my '36 P2 driver a few years ago, it had its original generator and 6 volt system, as it still does. The previous owner had installed a hot water heater, a pair of sealed beam auxilliary driving lights, and turn signals front and back. Each of these, by themselves worked fine. But there appeared to be inadequate power to run the turn signals, the headlights, and the brake lights (as when stopped at a stop sign or stop light) at the same time. The turn signals just shut off! Not a very safe situation. Also, the headlights were dim (all the time).
Trying to resolve the problem by making the most of the available generator power, I did the following---since the engine block and body were mounted to the frame on rubber, I connected them by adding braided ground straps for a really good ground, threw in new heavy duty battery cables and a new Interstate battery with good cranking power, had the head light reflectors re-plated by UVIRA, and installed an NOS headlight switch, floor high-low beam changer, and a headlight relay.
Now, the headlights are at least as bright as sealed beams and the starter
turns the engine over briskly. But, the turn signals are still lost with the headlights and brake lights on. Forget even thinking about the heater!
My next move was to add a 30 amp., positive gound, 6 volt alternator. This kept my battery in good shape, but didn't improve the losing-the-stop-lights problem.
Well my most recent move was to put in a new manufacture, positive ground, 6 volt, 60 amp. alternator, thinking surely this will kill the problem.
Guess what? No change in the problem. And, I even seem to have lost some of the performance I had had with the 30 amp. alternator (e.g., turn signals blink more slowly).
Do any of you who have waded throught all this think that the wire from the alternator to the (original) ammeter needs to be heavier gauge? And if a heavier gauge wire IS run from the 60 amp alternator, will there be an overload in the birdsnest & 20 amp. fuse at the ammeter? Or, do I need to look elsewhere?
Auto-electric gurus, please help! Thanks.
Fr. Mike,
Maybe I missed it, but I read your post twice, and didn't see that you mentioned a new wiring harness when you made your electrical upgrades. If not, your harness could be 72 years old now.
The wiring harness in my '36 may well be the original; it certainly looks like it is, and it needs attention from time to time. At some point, a previous owner installed a 1942 generator and voltage regulator; I suppose to provide a few more amps for the headlights and heater.
If you haven't done so, you might also check that the turn signal lights are well grounded, and if they're attached to the bumpers, make sure that the bumpers have a good ground to the frame.
My two cents.
Regards, and good luck with your troubleshooting,
Pat O'Connor
Is it possible that you have the wrong voltage flasher or bulbs in you directional signal system?
OK i'll stick my neck out, i'm not saying every one else is wrong but i'm inclined to think along the line of 36 ply that you have a grounding problem. i cant see it being any thing to do with the original wireing as they didn't have indicators wired in back then so that part of the wireing should be relativitely new
Well, in response to the suggestions from you guys who have taken time to help out with my P2, here's an update on progress.
I'm in process of:
(1) installing a 10 gauge, multi-standed copper cable between the (60 amp.) alternator and the ammeter,
(2) checking the turn-signal connections and renewing the ground front and back,
(3) de-mounting the alternator & bracket and making sure of good grounding there, and
(4) installing a smaller pulley on the alternator.
I had, awhile back, installed two woven copper ground straps, to set up a good ground connection between the the block, frame, and body. This really jazzed up the starter and the lights, as the engine and body had been mounted on rubber at the factory. There is a heavy duty 6 volt flasher in place.
Results later.
Meanwhile . . . . . Thanks!
Addtional suggestions, comments, etc. welcomed!!!
6 V systems and circuits rely on current flow. that is why the wires are thicker than 12 v systems. As such they are also less tolerent of resistance, as any resistance impedes flow. You have already seen the results of proper clean and tight grounds. Do the same on the power side of the circuit, by making sure all terminals, butt connectors, push in connectos , rings, spades, etc are clean and tight. Once you have established proper, electrically viable connections, some dielectric grease will go a long way to keeping that way. The junction block where the light circuits split to go to the individual lamps is especially important because unlike the under hood, interior and trunck connector it is basically exposed to the elements on the radiator support.