I am sort of a backyard mechanic,and want to do some motor work. I am planning on removing the radiator-having it cleaned out-etc.new plugs,points,wires,etc. My question (fear) is when rebuilding the motor,some of these old head bolts look like they have been on there since 1939,and if I can't back them out-?or they break/strip??My option at that point is getting it trailered-?to a mechanic-? whats the progression of events in the best of all worlds.
Keeping the block in the car. If I could get the head off-then its a valve job..pull the pan..
what are the commonalities of this job. Things that one would suggest in tackeling this job. Sequence of events??Any info would be appreciated.Thank you,Dennis
Dennis, I have recently started my first P-6 engine rebuild too. Important first lessons:
1) Be patient - go slowly and enjoy the process.
2) Document every move - take plenty of digital photos of every step - and create a notebook with each step numbered, the photos referenced, describe what you did, and make plenty of sketches. Yes, this takes time but it is well worth the effort. Six months from now it might be hard to recall where that little widget went that seemed so obvious at the time (and which end goes to the front of the engine?). The parts books and Motor's manuals just aren't that detailed for us beginners.
3) When you take photos, use a pencil to point at the parts that are the focus of the disassembly.
4) Use a ton of PB blaster to loosen rusted and "frozen" hardware. Let the goop work and allow it to sit over night or even longer. Better to wait than to break off parts. One trick on bolts is to gently and very slightly tighten before loosening the bolt. If you must use a torch, have a good fire extinguisher at your side.
5) Always consider safety first - the engine block is very heavy (don't let it fall on you or smash your toes - it hurts). Wear goggles - PB Blaster stings the eyes and doesn't taste too good either. In general think twice and act once, and
6) Use the POC discussion board to ask lots of questions (there are no dumb questions). Our members are gracious and generous in helping us novices get started in this great hobby. Have fun!
Dennis, everything James has said is worth noting and following - particularly the pictures and the notes.
If you can do it, it is best to remove the engine from the car and then work on it. Invest in an engine stand - cost is about $100.00 here for a decent one and you may get one cheaper. Believe me, its well woth it! When it comes to disassembly, and frozen bolts (proper name if they don't have separate nuts is cap screws), the smaller diameter they are, the more care has to be taken. It's unlikely you will break a head bolt reefing on it, but a pan or front cover bolt is a whole different story. Do as James says, try tightening the bolt slightly at first and then reverse and try to loosen. If the bolt turns, but with great resistance - stop. Put some more penetrating fluid around it and wait. While you are waiting it pays to vibrate the bolt if you can. If you don't have a means of vibrating it, the tap gently and repeatedly on the head, but not hard enough to mark it. Then tighten the bolt down again, and then loosen as far as you can until the resistance gets too high for comfort (if it does). Then repeat the whole process until it comes out. Believe me, the time spent in this manner, never equals the time spent and misery endured trying to drill out and re-tap sheared bolts.
When you get the engine stripped down to the block with the valves, camshaft, crankshaft, rods and pistons? left, the next steps are critical. Do not try to remove any piston until you have removed the ridge from the top of its cylinder! (Ridge reamers can be rented) This is essential if you think the pistons may be re-usable, and must be done before new rings are installed anyway.
Assuming you have removed the ridges at the tops of the cylinders, you will want to remove a rod cap and push the piston out. Don't! At least until you check if the rod assembly is numbered on both the rod and the cap. If there are numerals stamped on the rods/caps (always on the camshaft side) - in theory at least - make sure they match and that the number corresponds to the cylinder number with #1 at the fan end of the engine. If there are no numbers, or if they don't match, re-number the rods and caps. Use a prick punch if available, otherwise, a small, sharp centre punch will do. Mark on the flat of the rod/cap parallel to where the bolt goes through and on the camshaft side of the engine - no exceptions. Also, make sure each piston is numbered and has an arrow or other means of indicating the front. If not, use you handy punch and gently make depressions - 1 through 6 -? in the piston tops - parallel with the crankshaft. Place numbers forward of the piston centre using the fan end of the engine to denote "forward". Remember, pistons are not round, and the wrist pins are generally not on centre, so it is very important to keep them oriented.
With the pistons and rods removewd, you can remove the crankshaft. Again, make sure the block and the main bearing caps are numbered (fan is front) and numbers should be on camshaft side.
Next comes valve removal. Fist step: get a piece of flat board (1 x 4 works) a few inches longer than your engine block, and plan on drilling 12 holes in it spaced to take each valve. Again. make sure the front is noted. Remove the valves (don't lose keepers if you can help it) and place each in order in the board. Put the spring on the valve that it came off, and tape it or otherwise hold it with the valve. Warning! Before you remove any valve, look to see if the spring coils are evenly paced along its length, or if they are closer at one end. If thery are closer at one end, make sure you know which end goes toward the block and which toward the camshaft. Generally, closed coils go toward the block. After the valves are out, you can remove the cam followers (commonly called lifters) and, again, they need to be kept in order - no exceptions!!! If they are re-usable each must go back on the cam lobe it came from. Otherwise, you risk expensive problems down the road - not so much a risk, rather a virtual guarantee.
Now clean up and evaluations start, and one or more of us can help you through those processes step by step.
The two previous posts were right on. Here are a couple of links that may help out.
The first is a Yahoo group that I started but never went anywhere with it. The one useful thing is has is in the "Files" section. There are four PDF files that cover an article about rebuilding a Plymouth flathead 6. I believe you have to join the group to access those files but it costs nothing and it doesn't SPAM you or anything.
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/1930sPlymouths/
The second is all the pictures I took when I tore down an engine from a '57. Even after taking all those pictures, there were times that I wish I had taken more. YOU CAN'T TAKE TO MANY PICTURES!
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v76/JImCno/57%20Engine%20Teardown/
You can pull the head and the pan while the car is in the engine, but if you are going for a rebuild, you will want to pull it. What I did was buy another engine (they are cheap if you can find them), rebuild it, then swap them out. That way I could do the job at my leisure and still drive my car.
Good luck, take it one step at a time, and all will be fine.