Responders to past posting say I need a later model intake mainfold & carb on my 230 engine in place of the stock '37 equipment I'm running. Are the passages going to the ports larger diameter than the '37 manifold or is the difference just in the opening where the carb attaches? Until I find a later manifold I'm wondering if there is any benefit to having the passage at the carb enlarged or will this be a waste of time?
Chris, I honestly think you are barking up the wrong tree. Let me tell you what I have experienced with my '35. As I said before, it came with a 230ci from a '55. It had the original carburetor with the 1 7/16" throttle bore and the smaller exhaust pipe. At some point, I'm not sure when, they increased the throttle bore to 1 9/16". When they did, they widened the intake manifold opening. The earlier model has a bolt spacing of about 2 3/4". The newer manifold had a bolt spacing of about 3". However, the bolt spacing for the carburetor to throttle body remained the same. That means if you have the later intake manifold and throttle body, you can bolt an earlier model carb into it and that is the configuration I had. I came across a later model carb (D6G1) and installed it on my car. I did get a little extra power out of it, but not enough that it would be worth spending a lot of money to do it.
At some point, they also increased the size of the exhaust pipe.
If you think of your engine as a huge air pump, you realize that the less resistance to getting the air in and out of your cylinders will make it run better. That is the point of getting bigger carbs and exhaust pipes. Also remember that you can increase the carb all you want but you will still be limited by the size of your exhaust.
First, measure the center spacing of the bolts on your manifold. If that spacing is about 3 inches, it has the larger intake, if it has the smaller spacing, it will not accept the larger carb. If it has the larger spacing, then check the size of the carburetor throat. If it is less than 1 3/4", you can easily install the larger carb which is the set up I have now.
The problem is, you will probably have to change your intake manifold if you get a larger carburetor. At that point, you could consider getting a double barrel carb and manifold, however how much will you gain without increasing your exhaust pipe. I'm not sure if they increased that again when they went to the double barrel carb.
It is my understanding that the easiest way to increase your horse power is to cut your exhaust manifold in two and run a dual exhaust. After that, you can cut your intake manifold in two and run a dual carburetor system.
Then you have to ask yourself how much do you want to stray from your original system. Some people don't, some people have no problem making modifications that were period appropriate.
My personal opinion is your car should run just fine with the set up it has, if not, you should find out what is wrong with it and fix it before you start messing around with all those other modifications. You could go to a lot of work and expense and still have a car that is not running the way you want.
Jim, thanks for taking the time to provide some good information. This whole thing started when I asked about possibly changing carb or the jets because the choke must be pulled out about 1/4" to idle properly. I just want to get it to where it will idle like a pussycat purring. It runs good on the highway up to about 55 mph when things start getting busy with the 4.11 gears. Perhaps someday I'll go whole hog with dual exhausts & carbs but more speed is not my objective right now. We will keep tweaking and go slow on any high-dollar mods. thanks again, C in J.......
Does anyone have a link to the original post? I would like to read about you original problem. It sounds like a fun problem to troubleshoot. What carb type to you have now? I just got done rebuilding my 36. I have a newer (late 40's or early 50's) model carb and intake if you want to go that route. The carb was rebuilt by a company in phoenix. I didn't have the original base at the time. After going to hidden valley auto and going through a truck full of carbs I found the right base. I did some digging and the carb guy in phoenix told me they came out with a couple models of carbs each year and that those carbs were hard to get working so they came out with a replacement carb in the later years that resolved the problems. I'm going off memory here and what this guy told me, I have the model info at home but I believe the original had a C6E1 and C6E2 and I can't remember the model for the replacement that carter came up with. I can look it up tonight if you want
Mike
I'm not quite sure what your engine is trying to tell you when you have to pull the choke out to idle. Mine is just the opposite, I only use choke to start it cold. Have you done a vacuum check on it to check for leaks or other problems? Could a simple carb rebuild be in order?
You may want to repost and ask people what could cause that symptom and see if anyone has any ideas. Another place to go for great information about these cars is P15-D24. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/forumdisplay.php?f=2
You're probably not going much faster than 55 with that rear end. I do about the same. I can drive 55 all day but it starts to sound like an angry thresher at 60. I once got up to 67 miles an hour and it scared the heck out of me. I was waiting to hear a sonic boom or end up in another space-time continuum!
Good luck and have fun!
If it were me, I would stick with the original equipment and get it working correctly.
My attempt to explain what is going on...
When you choke is when the engine is cold. You do this because gas ignites quicker when the engine is cold. Choking the carb cuts off air to the carb which deliver more fuel and less air. This is to get more gas into the chamber.
Now in the case of choking the carb to get it to idle after it is warm, here is what I would try.
- I would adjust the idle air screw all the way in, this cuts off all the air when it is at idle. If it still runs, it is a vacuum problem. If it dies, set it back to what you had. This is a vacuum problem because it is still getting air to run.
- If you don't have a vacuum leak, check how fast it warms up. If it gets warmed up fast, your timing might be retarded. That would be the next thing to check.
- If your timing is correct and no vacuum leak, I would then take the carb apart and check the float level and all the jet passages. It wouldn't hurt to check it out at that point.
Hope this helps and good luck. Let me know how it goes.
Mike
original post asked, more or less "do I need to increase jet size to compensate for the 29 extra cubic inches, since it does not idle smoothly unless the choke is out a little." carb is a C6F5. would like to know what the final replacement carb is that Carter came up with. Float level is OK, but I have not checked any of the other things you suggested lately. on my next day off, I'll work with it a little more & let you know......
thanks,
C in J
I'm looking at the paperwork from an old carb rebuild kit that includes the C6F5. It shows 3 main metering jets. Part #159-58S is the standard jet, #159-60S is 1 lean, and #159-64S is 2 lean. So unless you have a lean jet int there right now, you're probably not going to find and increased jet size to fit it.
The only way I know to determine if a larger jet is going to help you is to put it in and try it out.