Just about to collect this one, only 140 mile round trip and I'd been looking in the States.
Notice the DeSoto in the last photo will get some shots of it provided it's still there .
Looks pretty solid and a very good find. Let us know how it goes with this one. And maybe some photos of that DeSoto too. :)
Oh my golly Tom what a treasure, good for you. I will be very interested in following your progress
Thank Tod and Bob for your kind comments, this truck in a Los Angeles build, spent most of it's life in New Mexico, serial # is 300 short of the last of the line. Both door skins need repair to the lower section which I will make up a 6" panel and weld it in, not sure if I will find the front trim and once I've established what the Plymouth script either side of the hood should be I will get a local shop to laser cut the profile for me. Nothing under the hood, there is a unit coming but depends on cost whether I go for that, I hit the importer at the right time, too much stock coming in with none going out plus I have a couple of spare wheels that he was in need of.
The glass you should be able to use as a template and take it to any good auto body glass company to have them cut the windshield for you. It was along time ago now, but I think I bought my Plymouth emblems from either Andy Bernbaum or Mitchells.
Not to change the subject, but did you see the letter I got from Bernbaums this past week? I posted it on facebook
Quote from: RC Drown on December 19, 2015, 07:07:12 PM
I bought my Plymouth emblems from either Andy Bernbaum or Mitchells.
Not to change the subject, but did you see the letter I got from Bernbaums this past week? I posted it on facebook
Ed J suggested Roberts but they are out of stock. Will follow up your leads and yes I did read the letter, a very nice gesture which perked you up at a bad time.
Thanks for your interest Tom
Look what the guys at Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts found for me NOS. I have asked them to check stock as I know members are looking for 40/41 hood emblems, will report back when I hear.
Very nice condition, from NM should be great to clean up or for paint.
The vent door windows I thought was standard for '41, only '39-'40 had none.
The "script" in the picture should be 7 1/2 inch wide for the hood of the '41...I sold a used pair this past fall off a Detroit made '41...that was the only year for on the hood, '40 had on the nose (curved).
Question: did it come with a metal or wood insert in the floor?
In your search for an engine if you find a '40 with PT 105 XXXXXXX serial number I am looking block/head or even complete.
Regards, Rich
Quote from: Richie on December 27, 2015, 12:15:08 PM
The vent door windows I thought was standard for '41, only '39-'40 had none.
Question: did it come with a metal or wood insert in the floor?
In your search for an engine if you find a '40 with PT 105 XXXXXXX serial number I am looking block/head or even complete.
Regards, Rich
Hi Rich, still waiting to collect it, Christmas got in the way. No vent side windows on this one as far as I can tell, looks to be single glass.
The floor see the photos below, toe board is deff. steel but can't tell about the floor.
I know the importer has an engine in the UK coupled to a 4 speed box, it came over in the same container but that's all I do know. Hopping to collect Wed/Thurs next wk so will know more then.
Thanks for your interest.
Tom
You guys check with Ed Juneau, he will know if they are wooden or not
Quote from: TodFitch on December 19, 2015, 10:58:01 AM
And maybe some photos of that DeSoto too. :)
Here you go Tod not a lot of room around the sides and none at the back, the owner said it was a 47, I replied same age as me then, he thought it had had an easier life than me.
Was able to collect the truck this last Thursday, good mornings work for 140 mile round trip. There's a lot happening on a complete drive train currently but not secured yet, will keep you posted.
Thanks Tom
Feeling very pleased, last evening I had it confirmed that the Drive-line I spoke about higher up the thread is now mine. Fortunately I have a very good friend in TN that travels around quite a bit with his business, he will pick it up for me, take it back to his shop and dispatch it to port when he has some other parts I'm waiting on. All is looking good so far this new year, picked up a 4ft guillotine, a fly press a blacksmiths anvil and a 3.5 ton 2 post lift, after having a sort out should be able to crack-on at speed. There is still another Drive-line local to me with the 4 speed box but still waiting to hear on that and whats with it. Have been offered a speedo for $100 does that sound good?
Glad to hear that all is falling into place
100 dollars for the speedometer sounds good in my book, even if it doesn't work, you have something to go by besides the one in your truck.
Have gotten back to the guy with the $100 speedo to see if he can send me a photo, would imagine this one is shot.
I remember seeing the one in your truck in some other photos, I sure hope the one this guy has is much better, I don't see how it could be any worse LOL Good luck my friend
You made me chuckle, that's why I asked him for a photo, never done business with him before because he's about 60%+. You would have seen it on P15-D24, keep you posted.
Luck came my way last wk, on FB by chance.
Been a while since posting here, moved along a little with this 41, have stripped the bodywork off of the front end so that I could prepare it for a 1947 T142 engine trans that has been de-coked and tidied in readiness for fitting.
Still can't embed Photos into text
Primed, Frame with 2 coats of Rust-Oleum, 2 Coates John Deere Green in keeping with it's former life, plus the engine waiting to be fired up.
looking good, but not all your photos down loaded, there was a box with a black x
I admire Your currage and perseverance and results !
Incredible, like Chet with his projects!
Greetings! Go
Thank you
Bob and Go, it's good to get feedback, it's part of why I do it. Today I expected my friendly Farmer to give me a hand putting the engine in place as the floor of the container is a couple of foot above ground level but that didn't happen so I struggled. Why are theses engine/trans so heavy, had the ground been flat and concreted or at least a good surface but there, it sits on the frame overnight ready for some rock-n-roll in the morning.
Last one for a while on this restoration, need to get her running for piece of mind.
Love it Tom, while I was getting a five hour cancer treatment, you were busy on the '41 I too can't wait to hear her run. I so agree with what Go posted
Now the engine is fully bolted in. Had lots of trouble with the right hand rear floating mount and eventually removed all 4 bolts holding the mount to the frame rail. The floating mount was then bolted to the rear cross member and then with the use of a pry bar aligned the 4 bolt holes. The long way round is often the quickest.
Great work, Tom. I enjoy following your build.
Recently started to straighten out the front end body panels, first was the center grill.
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Thought it necessary to destroy the lower part of the center capping which was spot welded to the grill, once assembled the center stainless molding covers the shot welds
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Quite a tedious job straightening out the louvers but very rewarding when finished new lower capping made
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Had I taken a little longer to check the cap section I would have made it in one piece but at this time I will keep the top orignal piece after panel beating.
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Hope you enjoy the new way we can load the stories of our journeys with our treasures.
Last pieces for this week
1 Coat Red Oxide followed by 2 coats of Rustoleum
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On to the lower grill panel
The next post will be the reshaping of the damaged louvers and welding the split sections.
you have come along way my friend, she is looking good, can't wait to hear her run. Thanks so much for sharing, I wish I was as talented as you are
Thanks for your comments Bob, not sure if it is talent or bone head, this one is meant to be just a tidy up.
Louver work
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Will be pleased when this is done
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Tried to show here before and after, this r/h/s was a matter of do I try and repair or cut it out and reform a new piece.
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be back soon.
Need to get an update photo of the Lower Grill to bring that up to date. Spent the last couple of days working on the left front Fender and Running board, Have found fair bit of brazing on some of the panels, slowly cutting it out and making good, although brazing is low temperature the heat travels a fair way so to prevent distortion I used a 1/16" slitting disc, carefully ground into the braze until I hit steel and then with a small chisel split the joint. This first fender has had loads of dings in it's 77 years but nothing that can't be reclaimed
The running board also has suffered over time, the top surface has an upstand ball chequer pattern difficult to recreate but I can try, where the fender and running board meet the metal has torn and badly bodged on the fender, spent most of the day making a new metal fabrication which will be stitched to the fender and bolt to the board. Photos tomorrow.
The single photo I have added shows the rear corner of the left Fender.
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Looking good
Here's the photos I promised.
I could spend all week tampering with these louvers but there comes a time when you have to move on
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Add a fender for good measure
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I needed to loss fit the assembly partly to check that I was going in the right direction and also that the curve n the lower matched the center grill
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Have a problem deciding what the transition should be between the fender and the running board, have now been given a figure of 1 3/8" overlap which means I have to modify
this fabrication which will go inside the fender to give double thickness
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as usual, I like to see Your work!
Go on!!
Greetings from Düsseldorf!
Go
This weeks project will be to reconstruct the rear ends of the front fenders, my first attempt failed because I over cooked it, I had allowed 2 " overlap but infact I have established that it should be 1 3/8"
I have to cut along the black line and the upstand marked XX will form the the inner skin
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Both fenders suffer the same problem, I need to replace the last 2 1/2" near vertical on the trailing edge due to age, poor repairs and vibration.
Left
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Right
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Now I've just got to do it.
Quote from: Go Fleiter on May 12, 2018, 07:50:10 AM
as usual, I like to see Your work!
Go on!!
Greetings from Düsseldorf!
Go
Thanks for your kind words Go, like what David has done with the settings, never liked all the photos at the foot of the page without discriptions.
Still battling with these front fenders,had hoped to get both finished this week but will be lucky to finish one. Cut the inner skin down to size, made the new piece for the outer skin of the left fender and now welded that piece on. [attachment id=0 msg=18902]
Once ground back will need a little panel beating and will be good to go.
Might be the last posting for a few days, family time is calling.
Back on the job, welds ground down, now a little plannishing.
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The running Board married into the Fender well.
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This is the inside after modifying the overlap insert.
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Now away for 10 days but I will be online from time to time.
Back on it now, made a start on the Right hand Fender and Running board, when I first started making a new insert to go between the fender and the running board, same as the drivers side, Then the leading edge of the fender needed some major surgery, the front edge had taken a blow and the hard bead line was completely smashed for the lower part almost to the headlight bucket depression. Slowly working my way around the fender, wheeled a small piece and let it in.
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Next comes a couple of splits before moving on to the rear where it marry's to the running board.
Where did that 4 months go ? Passenger door had a little rust at the lower edges so I had to make new inside corners and a full width 3" high skin for the outside.
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Time to lift the bed off the frame, surprising what you can do in a shoe box.
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Now for the cab after removing everything from the dash.
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Due to steering wheels getting harder to find I decided to lift the cab over the S/W to save taking it off and rest it on a couple of bearers positioned under the reinforcing stripes on the lower back section of the cab.
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New plates reqired at the point where the cab bolts to the frame.
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While working on the bed box I made a pair of Stake Holder Pockets for my 34 PE bed.
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Going forward, treated the underside of the cab with Fertan Rust Converter after removing most of the surface rust, then after 24 hrs removing all loose partials and dust before applying a generous coat of Red Oxide. Cover patches will be welded over the rust holes, inside and out to reinforce the cab fixings.
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The rear of the fame has now been cleaned of rust treated with Fertan and has it's coat of Red Oxide which will be followed by 2 coats of Black brushing enamel.