Turn signals

[SD Glenn]

Absolutely, try it, you'll like it............. maybe not at night with the headlight on, they are too close to the headlights to be seen then, but I never drive at night. Day time is real good. The rear ones are great either way.
Glenn

[plym_46]

The point is are they able to be seen when they are on??

[SD Glenn]

 I didn't show the front lights before, here they are now. lol  I used small marker lights for the front signal lights, I Painted the outside edges black, like the back ground paint. They show very little, you don't even notice them unless the turn signals are on. Pics attached. Thanks,
Glenn

[SD Glenn]

Hi, Here are a few pictures of the repair of the Turn Signal screw up I had. Pics of where I started and what it looks like now.
Glenn

[SD Glenn]

Hi, The fix was as follows:  I needed the resistance in the ciruit, I went down to our friendly MACs Hardware (Surplus store) and bought 2 rear Trailer lights (they are about 7 inches long by 2 1/2 wide). I cut them up and took all the inner works out and installed that in the shadow boxes I built, Then cut the lens to fit in the shadow box opening (which is the distance between the 2 bumper parts on the 29, about 1 3/4 inches). I'm not quite done yet but will post a picture of what I started with and finished with, as soon as I am done. Looks good so far.
Thanks
Glenn

[plym_46]

what wuz yer fix?

[SD Glenn]

My Turn Signals and tail lights work the way they are supposed to. I sure do want to thank you guys for your great support and patience with me. I was totally lost for a while there, but you got me on the right track.  It WORKS...... THANKS Plym_46, your guidance done the trick.
Glenn

[SD Glenn]

Thank You, I think you got me on the right track now. I understand what you are saying and it makes total sense. I will get that problem cured and let you know how I turned out. Thanks again............  I am going to be all "Thanked out" before I get this thing right LOL.
Glenn

[plym_46]

Clearence lights even the ones with two bulbs will never draw enough amps to make a flasher work.  You need the equivelent of 2 lamps withthe candle power of brake light bulbs.  I have used clearence light for trailer signals but they are then just parasites of the car circuit.  This is the same reason that most cars won't flash the led replacement bulbs witout switchig to and electronic flasher.

You might cheat your system by putting some inline resistance wire sections in the line from the flasher to the lamps but it might make the flasher work but produce very little light output at the fixture.

Some of the street rod places sell small and easlily hidden accessory lamps for turn circuits. but you would have to find 6V bulbs unless you have converted your car to 12V

[SD Glenn]

Thanks guys, You gave me a lot to think about amd figure out how to do it. I am not as good with this stuff as I thought. lol.   Part of the problem comes from: First off, I wanted to hide the turn signal and marker lights so they are not seen, except when the lights are working. And I accomplished that with shadow boxes hid behind the bumpers, they look good, hard to notice. Second: I used (problable the problem) side marker light for the signal and tail lights.. Pretty dumb I guess. Is there any cure for that so I can keep the shadow box configuration? You made a lot of sense to me with the resistance thing, I did try hooking up 4 lights in a series to see if that load would do it. Evidently still not enough? thanks again.
SD Glenn

[Lew]

My experience concurs with the need for dual filament bulbs which is a fairly easy change over and the bulbs are still available from vendors. Sometimes the pins on the bulbs may need to be "tweaked" to fit the sockets which you may find from the Model A Ford vendors such as Snyders, Brattons, etc.. Tweaking can be solved by a drop of solder on the pins or contacts being very careful with the heat. The brake light /turn signal (brighter) filament was chosen for  better visibility.

[plym_46]

Flashers work on circuit resistance.  If you are trying to flash standard parking light bulbs, they will not provide enough resistance for the flasher to work.  If you remember back in the bad old days, if you had a signal bulb out, the dash indicator would light but not flash, as the single bulb would not provide enough resistance to heat up the bimetailc strip that makes the flasher function. 

So if you are running single filiment bulb in seperate indicator fixtures as opposed to combining the function with a dual pigtail and dual filiment bulb you must run the higher CP bulbs necessary for the brake/ signal function. 

To complicate things, even with dual filament bulbs, in dual pigtail  fixtures the bulbs called for in our cars have non indexed bayonet mounts which means you can  put the bulbs in incorrectly aligned, so even if you have the proper CP bulb, if it lined up with the wrong circuit, the flasher will not have proper resistance.

You did not provide informatio regarding how your circuits are wired in your original post so it is hard to pinpoint what is going on but you must have the proper load for the flasher to function.  Either dual filament bulbs in dual pigtail sockets, or single  lamps  in seperat fixtures with proper signal/brake light bulbs.

On my P15, I am running dual pigtail fixtures in front so the lights function as parking lights on the low CP filament and signals with the hig Cp filament.  At the rear I have mounted light frixtures from a motorcycle with single element bulbs of the proper CP.  So at the rear I have ruing lights and brake lamps in the tail light fixtures on dual pictail sockets, and additional  uits for the signal function.

You need to convert your lamp sockets with these



and use proper dual filament light bulbs

or use proper Cp lamps with seperate fixtures for park and signal
or use proper CP lamps in the parking fixture and abandon the parking circuit.

and you thought it was gona be siimple didn't you?

[SD Glenn]

Hi, The filiment bulbs are not the problem, these are single bulb lights I put in. It does work right if I take the flasher out of the system, just work the switch by hand with a hot wire feeding the switch instead of the flasher feeding the switch.
Thanks forthe idea thou,
SD Glenn

[CHS]

Did you check to see if you have dual filiment bulbs? I had a problem similar to yours, turned out someone put single filiment bulbs in the rear taillights, I changed to dual filiment bulb and the turn signals worked.

[SD Glenn]

I need some help on trun signals that do not work. I am putting turn signals on the 1929 Plymouth Coupe.

What happens? When I hook everything up, as per the instructions, turn the signal switch to  the right or left side (makes no diference which side) the light will light up but not flash. Checking the voltage coming out of the flasher with NO light hooked to the system I have 6.4 volts. I hook up 1 (one) light then I still have 6.4 volts and the light is bright. If I hook up a second light the voltage drops to 3.0 volts and the lights go dim, if I hook up one more light (#3) the volts drop to 1.6 volts and the lights are still dim.  This happens even if I hook up only both tail lights, or any combination. I thought I had a ground problem, not so. I run ground wires to each light and it made no diference
The voltage comes thru the flasher from the fuse, and feeds the turn signal switch.

I got a NOS signal switch to start with. I used all new wiring and tail lights, turn signals, and front turn signals. I have tryed 3 (Three) new 6V Flashers. I have double checked all the grounds at all the lights, I have run a ground wire to the signal switch to be sure that its got a good ground. I have checked the battery and even tryed it with a battery charger hooked up to make sure I had enough  (6V) voltage. If I take the flasher out of the system, hook up a hot lead to where the flasher would normally furnish the 6V to the lights, everything works bright and OK and no voltage drop, as long as I run the switch by hand. I hope some one has an idea I haven't tryed.



Thanks
SD Glenn